Tuesday, November 18, 2008
The Great Adventure that never was (Rio Orinoco Delta)
While in Trinidad we researched and did extensive provisioning to make a 4 week passage up the Manamo river in the Orinoco delta (South America's north-east coast - Venezuela). Since the area is quite remote we had to be completely independent with respect to fuel, water and supplies.
We spoke with several other cruisers who had made the passage and were advised by many that it was the highlight of their time cruising. We calculated our anticipated diesel, gas and water requirements, checked with Customs regarding regulations such as yellow fever shots, advertised on the cruiser's net for a "buddy" boat, purchased articles to trade with the natives and bought enough mosquito netting to double our existing screens and cover the entire cock-pit.
The Orinoco is the most northerly of South America's four great rivers. The Manamo river is one of 5 of the major outlets through the Orinoco delta to the sea.
Climate in the delta is tropical with the seasons marked by variations in rainfall rather than temperature. The mean is 29 degrees celcius with a range of 2 degrees. The humidity is high.
One of the main reasons for visiting the Orinoco basin area is the flora and fauna.
Over l,000 species of birds have been sighted which include toucans, macaws, parrots and a large nesting area of scarlet ibis.
Also the area is home to a wide variety of animals such as otters, caimans, pink dolphins, monkeys and snakes.
In Venezuela there are 5 Indian tribes each with their own language but the Warao of the Orinoco delta consider themselves Venezuela's original inhabitants.
The Warao rely on dugout canoes which they fashion from giant sassafras and ceiba trees. We understand they happily paddle out to approaching yachts intent on trading with fish or baskets etc.
A journey into the delta is described as a passage through time as the Warao Indians current lifestyle and customs bridge about 3 centuries. Oddly, a part of modern times, the B.B.C. world news on-line was to be the downfall of our adventure as we sadly read on Sept. 29/08 an article captioned "death and dismay in the Orinoco delta". In this article we read of a mysterious illness that has killed 40 of the Warao tribe. (possibly rabies in bats) At the same time we spoke with another cruiser who had just returned from the river as his wife took ill and at that time she lay in hospital in Chicago (for 2 weeks) with an undiagnosed illness.
Our good judgement told us this was not the time for this adventure and sadly we abandoned our plans.
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