The Turning Tides

Now that we're in 8+ foot tides the current is substantial.  As we're moving along all day long it's impossible for us to time our passage to coincide with the rising and falling flow....we're at it's mercy.  We delighted in reaching 8.3 knots as we sailed through Port Royal Sound on a falling tide.  Our speeds against the rising tide are sometimes quite dismal (as little as 2 knots).  We use our sails to assist us along against the current when the wind is obliging.  Overall we're averaging just over 5 knots.
We've had quite a time anchoring due to the tide.  In Morehead City we found ourselves dragging as our anchor chain wrapped around the anchor and lifted it.  Our attempt to use a trip-line in the swamp resulted in our dinghy being entangled and the anchor lifted leaving us adrift again.  The size and position of the tide is crucial information when anchoring for the night in order to put out adequate scope.
While motoring through Beaufort, S.C. amid the roar of the fighter jets over-head, we broke down.  We dropped anchor while Barry repaired a plugged fuel line.
We marveled at the mansions on Hilton Head Island as we drifted around it.

Hilton Head Mansions

Hilton Head Island

Low Tide

We dropped anchor on a breezy, cool night in Bull Creek.  M565.5 just off Calibogue Sound (11 miles north of Georgia).
Much to our delight we're constantly sighting a great abundance of dolphins.

Hilton Head Lighthouse

Moving Along Through South Carolina

The landscape we've passed through along the ICW has been extremely varied.
We've passed by many gorgeous golf courses as we slip along anchorage to anchorage averaging approximately 40 miles progress for each 8 hour day of travel.
We experienced problems while over-nighting in Cow House Creek.  We used a trip-line on the anchor as we were in the "Wildlife Refuge Area" in the Cyprus Swamp. (Waccamaw River)
We were awakened by a neighbouring boat at midnight to check our anchor.  The strong tidal current had twisted us about so much our dinghy had entangled in the trip-line and lifted the anchor out.....we were indeed dragging along.
Our next night was spent pleasantly quiet in the South Santee River.
We were surprised to find the anchor was covered in some sort of creature......possibly oysters, as we lifted from the Mile 460 location.
Dolphins accompanied us across the dead calm waters of the Charleston Inlet, past Fort Sumter.
We waited twice today for bridges to open ..... a full hour at the Wappoo Island bridge.  We travelled against extreme current at Elliott Cut (M473)..... down to l.l knots and dropped anchor for the night, all alone at M488 (Church Creek).
We sat on deck in the warm evening air and watched the dolphins as the sun set.

South Carolina - Boats, boats and more boats

Our travels today took us past mile after mile of ridiculously gigantic houses and matching boats.  It seems that every man, woman and child in the Carolinas has at least a "Carolina Skiff" to run-about in.  We are amazed at the amount of "traffic" that is transitting the narrow Intercoastal waterway.  Everyone is bombing every which way and amongst it all today we even encountered 2 purists who felt they should have their sails up to add to the excitement.  Crazy!
We anchored on a breezy March 20th afternoon in the shallow water of Calabash Creek M341.7 ICW at Little River Inlet with 5' tide.  Just before we did so we glimpsed cruise ships ahead on the waterway.  It should be interesting to see just how many boats can squeeze into this small channel.
While travelling along the ICW today we saw 2 different Trump flags.  One said, "Trump 2020 - No More Bullshit" and the other read, "Trump 2020 - Keep America Great".
Welcome to South Carolina!
We're shocked to see the number of boats that are washed up at the side of the canal.  In our small anchorage there are no less than 2 on shore.  (note the sailboat in the trees photo .... it still has the sailcover on!).  We've also noticed extensive property damage and construction going on.

Atlantic Ocean - Beach - 80 degrees!

As we approached the Wrightsville Beach (Inlet) area (N.C.) we were delighted to finally find the sun, sand and surf we've been seeking.  In some locations we can clearly see right across the sand to the waves of the Atlantic as they lap the shore while other locations are filled with row on row of massive homes.
We take great joy in spending the night at anchorages where we can hear the ocean waves washing ashore and delight in viewing the many dolphins and shorebirds.
With the Cape Fear River behind us we spent the night of March 19th anchored in the shallow Shallotte Inlet (M330.5 ICW).  Our "Skipper Bob" guide book warns that shoaling in both the inlet and ICW is always a problem.  We'd have to agree and throw in crab pots every 10' as well.
In an attempt to find enough depth to anchor, taking into consideration the 4'5" tide, we had the mishap of one of our dinghy tow lines wrapping around the prop.  Barry worked on freeing it from the dinghy but unfortunately ended up diving under the boat several times in the 61 degree water.  He felt he got most of it free ..... hopefully enough.
We joked afterwards that better now than in the warmer water farther south .... with the gaters :)

Camp LeJeune (Marines) - North Carolina

While travelling on the waterway through the camp area we had the unique pleasure of watching them practice on a Harrier (Jump) jet.  It could take off vertically (like a helicopter); reach a terrifying speed then hover in place and land vertically ever so gently.....quite amazing!
Also on this very interesting day we heard a Coast Guard announcement on the radio of a "catastrophic launch".  They gave 4 co-ordinates of an area to avoid.  We determined quickly that it was off-shore in the Atlantic.  That news certainly had us looking skyward for awhile. 
We spent a restful St. Patrick's Day evening at the military "Mile Hammock Bay" anchorage. M244.5 ICW.

Behind Sugar Loaf Island - Morehead City (Mar. 13 - 17, 2020)

We spent 4 nights on anchor in N/E winds gusting 35 knots waiting for better weather to move on from Morehead City. 
While there a random 4 a.m. call on the VHF radio woke us.  As we made a quick peak out the hatch we were surprised to find we were dragging rapidly through the channel.  Our anchor chain had tied around the anchor due to the actions of the strong tide against the strong wind.  We had some bouncy times there!
COVID - 19
During the 5 days we spent on anchor behind Sugar Loaf Island we watched the waterfront restaurant across from us go from being packed with young people over the week-end to closed due to the virus.
We are so very grateful to have a cell phone that allows us contact with our loved ones back home as well as our daughter and her family who are travelling in the South Pacific.
During this time, it was with horror that we heard on Fox radio of line-ups generated by the virus at gun shops.  How terrifying is that?
We are sorry to be away from our family at this difficult time but we're also grateful to be living on board ..... a true self-imposed form of social distancing if ever there was one.

Pamlico Sound - Belhaven to Oriental (Neuse River)

We decided to split the 46 mile passage from Belhaven to Oriental into 2 days.
Our approach in dead calm water made the sighting of the always elusive crab pots considerably easier.
We spent 2 nights on Oriental's shallow town dock.
We used the opportunity to replenish our provisions (quick trip to the Piggly-Wiggly), fill our fresh water and diesel tanks, do our laundry, purchase a new anchor (22 lb. Danforth style) and 3 new belts for the "ever-testy" water-pump and enjoy dinner out.

Shrimp Boats - Oriental, North Carolina

Sea Star on Oriental's town dock

Birds along the Alligator River and Pungo River canal

On March 9th, 2020 we motored along the 21 miles that make up the golden waters of the Alligator River and Pungo River canal.
Our guide book warns against anchoring as an abundance of snags line both sides of the swamp on the narrow canal.
We're ever watchful for bird sightings along the way.  This day's passage offered us a good view of a bald eagle, 3 loons, vultures, many pelicans, seagulls, 1 cardinal and an abundance of cormorants.
We also signed 2 deer on shore.

Fetch is for dogs

We had difficulty finding an anchorage to stage for our crossing of the Albemarle Sound.  Our reference guide, "Skipper Bob" suggests Broad Creek (Mile 61.2) but we found there wasn't enough depth to get in so we back-tracked from there.
The next anchorage back was S/E of Buck Island.  It was unfortunately open to the south wind that was blowing.  So, we continued on to back-track to Mile 56.5 - behind Buck Island close to Green #153 mark. 
We anxiously edged in and dropped anchor in 5' of water behind the flashing green mark.  Our concerns lay that we'd go aground and not get out in the morning or one of the tugs that pushes barges through the canal in the dark of night would hit us.  Sweet Dreams.
We didn't want to spend more than one night anchored as such so we headed out at first light to make the 25 mile crossing of the Albemarle Sound in N/E 10-15 knot winds (& building) with a small craft advisory coming into effect at 1300 hrs. (1:00 p.m.)
We had a wild ride but at least the swell was from behind. (this kind of sea always makes our dinghy try to get into the boat)
We dropped anchor for the night just south of the sound in South Lake.
The day's small craft advisory built to a gale warning by the next morning:  N/W winds 15-20 gusting to 30 knots.
The forecast for the next day was:  North winds 20 knots, gusting 30, then N/W 20-25 knots, gusting 30 with 2-3' seas.
As we were anchored in South Lake open to the North and North-West we decided to lift anchor and feel our way through the shallows to drop in East Lake......not out of the gale but definitely out of the fetch. 
(photos of our laptop screen showing the navigational program - Open CPN)
Of interest, our VHF radio weather broadcast advises marines to use caution as the endangered right whales are active in coastal waters.  They also are broadcasting the yellow fin tuna fish report.

Great Bridge, Virginia

Our 1st stop for the night on the ICW was the free dock at Great Bridge where we enjoyed the sunshine and 22 degree day as we watched the rowers practicing in their skulls in the canal and the fire-fighters checking out their pumper truck.  (blissfully serene)

The Intercoastal Waterway (ICW)

On Monday, March 2, 2020 we motored through Norfolk and Portsmouth to enter the ICW.
We found the Red 2 mark but sadly couldn't find Green 1.
We anticipate travelling the ICW for more than 1300 statute miles (to the Florida Keys).

Ship Sightings in Norfolk & Portsmouth, Virginia

It was with great interest we observed the vast variety of vessels in the Norfolk area.
As always, we love to observe the different types of fishing boats.  We were amazed to find so many pleasure yachts in Hampton.  What a crazy, busy place that must be in the summer!
As we passed by the warships in Norfolk we heard on our radio that 2 submarines were being escorted in by tug boats.  Helicopters and surveillance planes were patrolling over-head while the Navy Police boats monitored the water.
As we passed through Portsmouth we could see a huge amount of ship building in progress.