Sunday, September 15, 2013
Lake Champlain Maritime Museum
We spent a very enjoyable day exploring the museum located at Vergennes (Basin Harbour), Vermont.
It was fascinating to learn about the area's rich history; the Revolutionary Way 1776 (War of Independence) and the War of 1812. We also saw evidence of the 300 historic shipwrecks that still lay in the depth of the lake.
Located on the museum's dock is a working replica of the 1776 Revolutionary War gunboat "Philadelphia" alongside several other historic water-craft and replicas all of which were constructed on the museum grounds by volunteers.
We learned about how the area experienced a very prosperous commercial period in the 1800s helped substantially by the opening of the Champlain canal in 1823. By the late 1840s goods could travel south through the Champlain canal to the Hudson River (New York city), westbound to the Great Lakes via the Erie canal and north to the St. Lawrence River via the Chambly canal.
In the museum we viewed video footage of the 1776 gunboat "Spitfire" which sits intact in 300 feet of water. The museum has done extensive research to find a method to preserve this very significant national treasure especially now that zebra mussels have entered the lake.
The original 1776 gunboat "Philadelphia" was raised from the lake bottom and is on display in the Smithsonian while the "Spitfire" remains preserved by the cold lake water.
The museum has been instrumental in locating, cataloguing and preserving the lake's underwater history.
Seven dive sites throughout the lake have been marked as "underwater historic preserves". These locations offer divers the opportunity to view 19th century wrecks.
Summer - Mallett's Bay
We can't imagine any place that epitomizes summer more than Mallett's Bay, Vermont.
Situated east of the main lake, bordered by 6 miles of marble causeway (built in 1899 for the railway), lies a 16 square mile bay with another snug 4 square mile bay to it's south-east. Truly an ideal location to while away the hot, sunny day of summer.
During our time there we enjoyed swimming off Thayer beach while savouring local fresh treats of blueberries, corn and "creamee" ice cream.
Cycling is a very popular pastime in Vermont. It seems to epitomize their truly organic, eco-friendly culture.
Anchors Away
Lake Champlain's rocky shoreline reminds us of Northern Ontario. One can almost envision the Group of Seven perched on the rocky shore amidst the pine trees and blueberry bushes. Its certainly very beautiful scenery, but not always the easiest location for anchoring as we sadly found out in Sloop Cove, off Valcour Island.
Although the mountains offer snug coves for anchorages they often are very deep and steep to (the shore) - 30 to 50 feet with one's anchor sitting on a rocky bottom.
On July 16th our 15 kg. plough anchor refused to be budged from it's rocky hold in Sloop Cove. We imagined it caught on a cannon left behind from a 15 ship battle fought here in 1776, led by Benedict Arnold against the British fleet (more likely though the bloody thing was just stuck between rocks!!)
Regardless, after many failed attempts to retrieve it, Barry hacked through the chain and we sadly left the anchor and 30 feet of chain below.
Until we can replace the plough we're using our 25 lb. Danforth anchor.
Lovin' the Landscape
As we sail in varying directions along the lake we are constantly awed by the view.
The Adirondack mountains running along the west shore seem to be in competition with the Green mountains running along the east to see which range can offer a more stunning vista. From sunrise over the Green mountains to sunset over the Adirondacks the changing light offers continuous spectacular views.
At times, passing clouds will open to reveal emerald patches of colour as the sun reflects off the green carpet of trees below; at others the last pink light of the day appears captured behind the black silhouette of the mountain range. No matter what the weather may be the view is always changing and always breathtakingly beautiful.
Lake Champlain - Stats and Observations
The lake is 120 miles long and 10 miles wide at it's widest point. The greatest depth is 400 feet. Seventy islands are within the lake's waters. It runs along the state lines of New York state to the west and Vermont to the east. The Canadian border (Quebec) crosses the north end. New York state's Adirondack mountains run along the western shore while the Green mountains of Vermont run along the east.
Ferries cross the lake at 3 points while only one bridge, the Champlain bridge, crosses to join New York state and Vermont.
Properties bordering on the lake vary from farm land, cottages, camps, small towns and numerous parks.
Many ice cold mountain streams flow into the lake. The silt/sand at their mouths extend great distances offshore which makes for very pleasant swimming.
The landscape reminds us of Northern Ontario with it's rocky shoreline, pine trees and blueberry scrub. While sailing in September we are reminded of Northern Ontario even more as we are awakened each morning by the call of the loons to the single digit temperatures and heavy dew on the deck. The full plastic enclosures we see most boats equipped with are starting to make sense.
We find a greater concentration of boats here than we've seen in quite awhile. One night, in Mallett's Bay, we dropped anchor with 170 others - mostly showing a home port of Montreal. Never have we seen so many large (40+ feet) boats, mostly newer models of Beneteau and Juneau. We can only assume there must have been quite a sale on sail in Montreal!
When we approached a marina regarding transient dockage we were advised that they were full - 400boats made up of 390 Canadians and 10 U.S. 
Flooding - Rain, rain go away
This year (June 2013) as we returned to Sea Star in the Hudson River, we became aware of the extensive flooding problem in the area.
Some counties that the Erie canal runs through have been designated as disaster areas due to the flooding, which resulted in the closure of the canal.
As we travel north through the Champlain canal and into Lake Champlain the water levels continue to be a problem. Lake Champlain is currently sitting 6 feet above chart datum! Local marinas are facing many difficulties dealing with the flood waters not to mention the lack of tourists due to the rain.
We found the break-wall off the town of Burlington to be virtually submerged as are many (aid to navigation) buoys.
The area faces this flooding while still recovering from damage caused by hurricane "Irene" (2011).
Sightings
On route through the canal and in the very southern end of the lake we made sightings of several interesting birds.....bald eagles, heron, cormorants, osprey, red-winged blackbirds and loons.
Just past lock 6 we found ourselves at the scene of an accident. A poor fellow had rolled his truck down the bank - it sat crushed and partially submerged in the canal. We attempted to offer help and waited until a passing truck stopped to lend assistance.
At the narrow, southern end of the lake we watched 2 very unusual boats (1 with paddle wheels and a conveyor belt) as they harvested water chestnuts. It wasn't until 10 days later, when we toured the ECHO centre in Burlington, that we realized the significance of the water chestnut harvesting. In the south section of Lake Champlain the water chestnut remains a major invasive species problem however notable progress has been made to control it. Mechanical harvesting has reduced the infestation steadily over the last decade.
On route through the canal and in the very southern end of the lake we made sightings of several interesting birds.....bald eagles, heron, cormorants, osprey, red-winged blackbirds and loons.
Just past lock 6 we found ourselves at the scene of an accident. A poor fellow had rolled his truck down the bank - it sat crushed and partially submerged in the canal. We attempted to offer help and waited until a passing truck stopped to lend assistance.
At the narrow, southern end of the lake we watched 2 very unusual boats (1 with paddle wheels and a conveyor belt) as they harvested water chestnuts. It wasn't until 10 days later, when we toured the ECHO centre in Burlington, that we realized the significance of the water chestnut harvesting. In the south section of Lake Champlain the water chestnut remains a major invasive species problem however notable progress has been made to control it. Mechanical harvesting has reduced the infestation steadily over the last decade.
The Champlain Canal
11 locks - 8 up, 3 down
Distance - 64 statute miles from Troy to Lake Champlain
Minimum depth - 12 feet
Current - 1 to 2+ knots
On June 30th, 2013 we entered the canal, heading north.
We found going up to be considerably more difficult than down, which is something we don't remember during our passage south (2006) in the Erie canal.
We required assistance to be pulled out of one lock as our propeller shaft came loose - probably a result of the massive amount of debris we've encountered.
We passed through 5 locks on June 30th (all up) and the other 6 (3 up, 3 down) to arrive in Lake Champlain, on Canada Day.
The Federal Lock at Troy
We were over-joyed to be once again making our way along as we took in the sights of the Port of Albany.
We noted great marketing on the part of the U-Haul company as one of their large trucks can be seen spinning on the roof of their building to the entertainment of those travelling on the expressway (and canal).
We provisioned with fresh foods at the expansive, unique outdoor market in Troy and over-
nighted in the strong current on their free town dock.
As we approached our first lock, the Federal lock at Troy, we became aware of the full magnitude of the area's extensive flooding. Severe rains for several weeks have resulted in some counties along the Erie canal being declared disaster areas and have closed the canal (for 2 1/2 weeks at this point with at least a 2 week wait - barring further rain!).
The Champlain canal still remains open though extensive flooding was reported, so much so, even the lock operator was taking photos of the area. When the dams are opened and the water allowed to flow through, one quarter inch of rain at the north end of the canal becomes 1 and 1/2 FEET at the south end!
As a precaution while overnighting, the lock operator asked us to move from our location tied up to the cement wall at lock 1 to the floating dock at Waterford. While there we viewed the backlog of boats awaiting the opening of the Erie canal. For their safety they have all been moved up to the 2nd and 3rd locks to get them out of the flooding and fluctuating water levels.
Our approach to the Federal lock was not unlike driving the "Maid of the Mist" into Niagara Falls!
We bobbed like a cork in a pot of boiling water due to the rushing flood water pouring over the adjoining falls. Sea Star took several bangs as we edged our way into the lock through the flotsam and jetsum.
We kept a vigilant watch for deadheads as they were abundant in the canal due to the flooding.
Stow, Stow, Stow your Boat
Here we go again!!!
On June 23rd, 2013 we returned to Sea Star. She has been stored on land since last July (2012) at Coeyman's marina (near Albany, N.Y., on the Hudson River) due to the transmission breakdown which forced us to haul-out.
While stored last summer Sea Star was subjected to hurricane "Sandy". All that remained of the tarp we left on her was a few grommets but luckily the only damage sustained was some chips in the gel coat.
We spent 4 days working on board - mostly making repairs and alterations to Sea Star to meet surveyor requirements for our insurance company.
After extensive clean-up we "splashed" on June 28th, 2013. The repaired transmission responded to forward gear, we both heaved a sigh of relief and set off for adventures north. (great job Barry!)
While at Coeyman's we met John Guider when he rowed his 14' Scary design home-built boat (sails and oars) into the marina for the night. He was part-way along on his plan to do the great loop. He clearly has some challenges ahead of him. We wished him well. www.johnguider.com (1st book about previous adventure - "The River Inside")
Here we go again!!!
On June 23rd, 2013 we returned to Sea Star. She has been stored on land since last July (2012) at Coeyman's marina (near Albany, N.Y., on the Hudson River) due to the transmission breakdown which forced us to haul-out.
While stored last summer Sea Star was subjected to hurricane "Sandy". All that remained of the tarp we left on her was a few grommets but luckily the only damage sustained was some chips in the gel coat.
We spent 4 days working on board - mostly making repairs and alterations to Sea Star to meet surveyor requirements for our insurance company.
After extensive clean-up we "splashed" on June 28th, 2013. The repaired transmission responded to forward gear, we both heaved a sigh of relief and set off for adventures north. (great job Barry!)
While at Coeyman's we met John Guider when he rowed his 14' Scary design home-built boat (sails and oars) into the marina for the night. He was part-way along on his plan to do the great loop. He clearly has some challenges ahead of him. We wished him well. www.johnguider.com (1st book about previous adventure - "The River Inside")
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