Safely Home

As we've been making our way south we've listened on the radio as the number of cases of Covid-19 escalated in the U.S.
While on the water we felt quite safe ..... at arm's length from the problem, so to speak but we knew eventually we'd have to attempt to make our way by car through the hot-zones to get home.
For the past while we've been attempting to find a boat yard where we could get the boat hauled out to store and co-ordinate a car rental.  Much to our dismay we found some of the yards were already full and many of the car rental agencies had closed, as had the restaurants and hotels.
We finally had luck at Tiger Point Marina, Fernandina Beach, Amelia Island, Florida.
Enterprise car rental agency agreed to deliver a car to the dock there.
On March 31st at high tide, slack water, Sea Star was lifted out of Egan's Creek.
Barry rode back with the "Enterprise" employee as she returned to her office.  She told him she had been required to show her work documentation that day to justify to the Police Officers at the Georgia/Florida border her "movement on the road" was job related.  She also told Barry he was the first person she'd transported who had worn a mask and gloves.
We sterilized the rental car, loaded it with our luggage and the boat gear that was going home and left Florida at 5:00 p.m.  We napped in 2 rest areas and ate only the cereal I'd brought with us from the boat.
It took 18 hours to make our way from Florida's 90 F (33C) degree temperature to our car we'd left behind in Virginia.  When we arrived at our initial departure point in Virginia (Reedville) it was 39 F (4C) degrees ..... exactly the same high temperature as the day we'd left 5 weeks before.  Good thing we left when we did and didn't hold out waiting for spring.
We returned the rental car to downtown Richmond at mid-day.  We were shocked to find it was a ghost town.
We arrived at the Canadian border, Fort Erie at 11:20 p.m. on April 1st and cleared in to Canada.  We were the only car in the area.  There was 1 lane open .... it was "manned" by an elderly, kindly gentleman (no mask).  He told us we were to go straight home and to stay there for 2 weeks.  We were to make no stops along the way.  He said if we were "caught" outside of our home in the next 2 weeks we would be subject to a 1 Million dollar fine and 3 years in jail.
33 hours after we left our boat in Florida, we arrived home ..... totally, completely exhausted but so very glad to be safely home.

Tiger Point Marina and Boat Works - Fernandina Beach, Amelia Island, Florida

Bridges - 44 and counting

On the Intercoastal Waterway between Mile 1 in Virginia and Key West in Florida there are a total of 191 bridges of assorted design:  bascule, float, swing, train, lift and free standing. 
During our travels from Mile 1 in Virginia to the Georgia/Florida border we've passed through 44 bridges.  Florida, between the Georgia border and Key West has a total of 147 bridges. Some of them we simply float under while others we need to contact the bridge operator on the VHF radio and ask for an opening.  We've waited up to an hour at times, but most open more frequently or on request.
Some of the bridges are doubled....one for traffic, one for trains. 

Sounds Abound

Sound:  Wikipedia: A sound is a large sea or ocean inlet, deeper than a bight and wider than a fjord; or a narrow sea or ocean channel between two bodies of land.

On March 28th we passed through Doboy Sound, St. Catherine's Sound and Sapelo Sound.  The next day we passed through Altamaha Sound, St. Simons Sound and St. Andrew's Sound.
As we made our way through Cumberland Sound to Amelia Island we were approached by the Coast Guard.  They insisted we make haste to clear the area as a warship was coming in from the sea.  We did what we could and mustered a whopping 4.2 knots.  Two massive Navy ships came out to guard the channel.  A submarine came in as well.
We "hastily" motored on past the Navy's degausser.....a strange looking "garage" in the water that's used to neutralize a ship's magnetic field. 
Our passage through the sounds is ever exciting.  Our resource information points out areas in each sound for fishing.....including for sharks should we wish to try our luck.
We found sounds and inlets were places of gorgeous beaches.  Most were punctuated with a beautiful lighthouse.  We've promised ourselves we'll return someday to explore the beaches of Jekyl Island and especially Little Cumberland Island.  We were truly enamored by their beauty.
We had a great ride surfing with the tidal flow out into the Atlantic Ocean at St. Andrew's Sound but were dreading the long slog that lay ahead against the tidal current up the Cumberland River.  Much to our delight we were able to put the head sail up and sail all the way to our anchorage that night in Delaroche Creek, off the Cumberland Dividings.

Georgia

The portion of Georgia that we see along the Intercoastal Waterway is winding rivers through marshland and sounds (inlets).....not too much else.
On March 27th we passed our first manatee habitat warning sign as we coasted into Georgia.
While motoring along a small winding stream on our approach to Savannah we were surprised to come "face to face" with a Cosco container ship.
As our view is mostly across low marshland the large ship appeared to be approaching on the stream but it was actually on the nearby Savannah River. 

Unfortunately on the afternoon of March 29th we found ourselves aground....stuck in the mud! at M684 ICW, just north of the bridge at Jekyl Island.  Even more unfortunate, we had 5 feet of tidal water UNDER us and it was FALLING!
Barry did a stellar job of getting us free (sadly he's had plenty of practice).  He put the head sail up to try and list us over to move forward.  He was just in the process of hoisting the mainsail when 2 power boats happened by.  Barry asked them if they'd put up a large wake which they did and it was enough to bounce us out.  Yeah! Thanks guys, free again.
Georgia is currently experiencing record high temperatures.  The highs are in the low 90s F (30s C)....very comfortable boating weather.

The Turning Tides

Now that we're in 8+ foot tides the current is substantial.  As we're moving along all day long it's impossible for us to time our passage to coincide with the rising and falling flow....we're at it's mercy.  We delighted in reaching 8.3 knots as we sailed through Port Royal Sound on a falling tide.  Our speeds against the rising tide are sometimes quite dismal (as little as 2 knots).  We use our sails to assist us along against the current when the wind is obliging.  Overall we're averaging just over 5 knots.
We've had quite a time anchoring due to the tide.  In Morehead City we found ourselves dragging as our anchor chain wrapped around the anchor and lifted it.  Our attempt to use a trip-line in the swamp resulted in our dinghy being entangled and the anchor lifted leaving us adrift again.  The size and position of the tide is crucial information when anchoring for the night in order to put out adequate scope.
While motoring through Beaufort, S.C. amid the roar of the fighter jets over-head, we broke down.  We dropped anchor while Barry repaired a plugged fuel line.
We marveled at the mansions on Hilton Head Island as we drifted around it.

Hilton Head Mansions

Hilton Head Island

Low Tide

We dropped anchor on a breezy, cool night in Bull Creek.  M565.5 just off Calibogue Sound (11 miles north of Georgia).
Much to our delight we're constantly sighting a great abundance of dolphins.

Hilton Head Lighthouse

Moving Along Through South Carolina

The landscape we've passed through along the ICW has been extremely varied.
We've passed by many gorgeous golf courses as we slip along anchorage to anchorage averaging approximately 40 miles progress for each 8 hour day of travel.
We experienced problems while over-nighting in Cow House Creek.  We used a trip-line on the anchor as we were in the "Wildlife Refuge Area" in the Cyprus Swamp. (Waccamaw River)
We were awakened by a neighbouring boat at midnight to check our anchor.  The strong tidal current had twisted us about so much our dinghy had entangled in the trip-line and lifted the anchor out.....we were indeed dragging along.
Our next night was spent pleasantly quiet in the South Santee River.
We were surprised to find the anchor was covered in some sort of creature......possibly oysters, as we lifted from the Mile 460 location.
Dolphins accompanied us across the dead calm waters of the Charleston Inlet, past Fort Sumter.
We waited twice today for bridges to open ..... a full hour at the Wappoo Island bridge.  We travelled against extreme current at Elliott Cut (M473)..... down to l.l knots and dropped anchor for the night, all alone at M488 (Church Creek).
We sat on deck in the warm evening air and watched the dolphins as the sun set.

South Carolina - Boats, boats and more boats

Our travels today took us past mile after mile of ridiculously gigantic houses and matching boats.  It seems that every man, woman and child in the Carolinas has at least a "Carolina Skiff" to run-about in.  We are amazed at the amount of "traffic" that is transitting the narrow Intercoastal waterway.  Everyone is bombing every which way and amongst it all today we even encountered 2 purists who felt they should have their sails up to add to the excitement.  Crazy!
We anchored on a breezy March 20th afternoon in the shallow water of Calabash Creek M341.7 ICW at Little River Inlet with 5' tide.  Just before we did so we glimpsed cruise ships ahead on the waterway.  It should be interesting to see just how many boats can squeeze into this small channel.
While travelling along the ICW today we saw 2 different Trump flags.  One said, "Trump 2020 - No More Bullshit" and the other read, "Trump 2020 - Keep America Great".
Welcome to South Carolina!
We're shocked to see the number of boats that are washed up at the side of the canal.  In our small anchorage there are no less than 2 on shore.  (note the sailboat in the trees photo .... it still has the sailcover on!).  We've also noticed extensive property damage and construction going on.

Atlantic Ocean - Beach - 80 degrees!

As we approached the Wrightsville Beach (Inlet) area (N.C.) we were delighted to finally find the sun, sand and surf we've been seeking.  In some locations we can clearly see right across the sand to the waves of the Atlantic as they lap the shore while other locations are filled with row on row of massive homes.
We take great joy in spending the night at anchorages where we can hear the ocean waves washing ashore and delight in viewing the many dolphins and shorebirds.
With the Cape Fear River behind us we spent the night of March 19th anchored in the shallow Shallotte Inlet (M330.5 ICW).  Our "Skipper Bob" guide book warns that shoaling in both the inlet and ICW is always a problem.  We'd have to agree and throw in crab pots every 10' as well.
In an attempt to find enough depth to anchor, taking into consideration the 4'5" tide, we had the mishap of one of our dinghy tow lines wrapping around the prop.  Barry worked on freeing it from the dinghy but unfortunately ended up diving under the boat several times in the 61 degree water.  He felt he got most of it free ..... hopefully enough.
We joked afterwards that better now than in the warmer water farther south .... with the gaters :)

Camp LeJeune (Marines) - North Carolina

While travelling on the waterway through the camp area we had the unique pleasure of watching them practice on a Harrier (Jump) jet.  It could take off vertically (like a helicopter); reach a terrifying speed then hover in place and land vertically ever so gently.....quite amazing!
Also on this very interesting day we heard a Coast Guard announcement on the radio of a "catastrophic launch".  They gave 4 co-ordinates of an area to avoid.  We determined quickly that it was off-shore in the Atlantic.  That news certainly had us looking skyward for awhile. 
We spent a restful St. Patrick's Day evening at the military "Mile Hammock Bay" anchorage. M244.5 ICW.

Behind Sugar Loaf Island - Morehead City (Mar. 13 - 17, 2020)

We spent 4 nights on anchor in N/E winds gusting 35 knots waiting for better weather to move on from Morehead City. 
While there a random 4 a.m. call on the VHF radio woke us.  As we made a quick peak out the hatch we were surprised to find we were dragging rapidly through the channel.  Our anchor chain had tied around the anchor due to the actions of the strong tide against the strong wind.  We had some bouncy times there!
COVID - 19
During the 5 days we spent on anchor behind Sugar Loaf Island we watched the waterfront restaurant across from us go from being packed with young people over the week-end to closed due to the virus.
We are so very grateful to have a cell phone that allows us contact with our loved ones back home as well as our daughter and her family who are travelling in the South Pacific.
During this time, it was with horror that we heard on Fox radio of line-ups generated by the virus at gun shops.  How terrifying is that?
We are sorry to be away from our family at this difficult time but we're also grateful to be living on board ..... a true self-imposed form of social distancing if ever there was one.

Pamlico Sound - Belhaven to Oriental (Neuse River)

We decided to split the 46 mile passage from Belhaven to Oriental into 2 days.
Our approach in dead calm water made the sighting of the always elusive crab pots considerably easier.
We spent 2 nights on Oriental's shallow town dock.
We used the opportunity to replenish our provisions (quick trip to the Piggly-Wiggly), fill our fresh water and diesel tanks, do our laundry, purchase a new anchor (22 lb. Danforth style) and 3 new belts for the "ever-testy" water-pump and enjoy dinner out.

Shrimp Boats - Oriental, North Carolina

Sea Star on Oriental's town dock

Birds along the Alligator River and Pungo River canal

On March 9th, 2020 we motored along the 21 miles that make up the golden waters of the Alligator River and Pungo River canal.
Our guide book warns against anchoring as an abundance of snags line both sides of the swamp on the narrow canal.
We're ever watchful for bird sightings along the way.  This day's passage offered us a good view of a bald eagle, 3 loons, vultures, many pelicans, seagulls, 1 cardinal and an abundance of cormorants.
We also signed 2 deer on shore.