Hanging Out with the Howlers (Scotland Bay, Trinidad) After 11 weeks on anchor off TTSA we were more than ready to head back to the peace and tranquility of Scotland Bay. We spent the next seven weeks happily enjoying flora, fauna, fish and friends. Many a good time was had swapping tales of adventure with fellow cruisers. One boat that particularly stands out is new friends we met out of New Zealand. They have been cruising for 30 years during which time they circumnavigated 3 times. They are avid shell collectors and we spent an evening with them admiring their collection. According to them the best place on earth to find shells is Madagascar. To say we were impressed would be an understatement. One item of note regarding this couple - they have never had a refrigerator on their boat - amazing people. Others whose company we enjoyed were our very good friends, Robin & Sandra (Ngoma, Zimbabwe); Margaret & Brian (Gypsy Days - Australia) who are 15 years into their circumnavigation (only 10,000 miles to go!); Manon & Gervais (La Bete - Monteal, Canada) we enjoyed their company sight-seeing; and Jan & Max (Mambo - England) who were on route to Nova Scotia. The bay supplied us with clear, dark, night skies, highlighted in November by the planets Venus and Jupiter and the constellations Scorpio and Aries. The bay was busy at night as swarms of bats swooped over the bio-luminesent water. During the days we enjoyed the vast bounty of nature: white-winged swallows, kiskadee, parrots, oropendola, red howler monkeys, sea turtles, sea rays, sharks, osprey, angelfish, dolphins, pilot whales, pelicans, vultures, many different coloured butterflies and even a pufferfish. We are saddened as we float in Scotland Bay's calm waters these last few days before we part with our cruising friends, to make our way home for Christmas. Currently, we don't intend to return to Trinidad next rainy season but we already know we'll miss the bay's safe haven and bounty of nature, especially the howler monkeys.

A Wind Event On October 11, 2008 our wind instruments registered 48 knots (57.5 mph, 92.6 kmph) - the highest wind we've been in to date. We were anchored in Scotland Bay as we watched the storm approach for an hour or so. Contrary to the trade winds usual easterly direction the storm approached from the south-west (our anchorage's only vulnerable opening to the Paria gulf). Barry had our diesel disabled that day as he was installing a new refrigerator compressor. He scrambled to hastily put it back together as we saw the storm approach. Thankfully the engine started as we needed it to motor into the wind (to take some of the weight off of the anchor). We hastily grabbed our sun awnings off deck and stowed them below before we endured 30 minutes of gale (force 10) winds. We could see the wind gusts approaching as they lifted the sea into a white wall of spray. An hour before the on-slaught we dropped a 2nd anchor. Our friends on Ngoma were not quite so lucky and we watched them drag across the bay towards us during the storm. Two days afterwards we watched "Omar" develop out of the storms (eventually to a Category 4 hurricane); north and west of us. I was baking bread that morning and had just taken the loaves out of the oven. They sat cooling on the baking sheet in a bed of cornmeal. In our frenzy to secure the ship we neglected to close the hatch directly over the galley. Sea Star safely held her own through the storm but unfortunately the wind lifted the cornmeal and the spray stuck it everywhere below. While the swells rolled in for a few hours afterwards we had a big mess to clean up but a good laugh as well.

A Unique Cultural Experience - Divali As our Trinidad tourist guidebook states; Divali; The ancient festival of light has travelled with Hinduism from India. It is filled with jubilation, togetherness and pageantry with the focus being on the home, family and community. Trinidad's observation of this festival is one of the largest outside of India where whole communities line their houses, streets and build bamboo structures outside that contain thousands of "deyas" (earthen lamps) making for an enchanting night-time experience. We would have to agree.

Enjoying Divali During our outing to the festival of light we enjoyed entertainment in the temple by elaborately dressed dancers and drummers. Our meal that night was roti bread, breadfruit, mango, channa (chick pea and curry potatoes) and pumpkin all served up on a large leaf (no dishes to wash tonight). We strolled through the candle-lit and lighted streets amidst fireworks going off around us. Many residents were handing out bags of home-made sweets to those who passed by. We found the celebration contained many aspects similar to our Christmas (the lights), 24th of May (the fireworks) as well as Halloween (handing out of treats to those who pass by). One local professed to us that this celebration was the Hindu's Christmas. It was certainly a unique experience for us and we were very thankful to have to opportunity to take part.

Shubh Divali (Happy Hindu Festival of Light) On the darkest night of the year, October 28th, 2008, we had the good fortune to travel along with 60 other cruisers to discover and enjoy the Hindu Festival of Light, Divali. We toured the town of Felicity, Trinidad which was awash with millions of candles and lights. One of our favourite treatments of the candles was to see them set in sand in paper bags lined along the streets and yards.

The Great Adventure that never was (Rio Orinoco Delta) While in Trinidad we researched and did extensive provisioning to make a 4 week passage up the Manamo river in the Orinoco delta (South America's north-east coast - Venezuela). Since the area is quite remote we had to be completely independent with respect to fuel, water and supplies. We spoke with several other cruisers who had made the passage and were advised by many that it was the highlight of their time cruising. We calculated our anticipated diesel, gas and water requirements, checked with Customs regarding regulations such as yellow fever shots, advertised on the cruiser's net for a "buddy" boat, purchased articles to trade with the natives and bought enough mosquito netting to double our existing screens and cover the entire cock-pit. The Orinoco is the most northerly of South America's four great rivers. The Manamo river is one of 5 of the major outlets through the Orinoco delta to the sea. Climate in the delta is tropical with the seasons marked by variations in rainfall rather than temperature. The mean is 29 degrees celcius with a range of 2 degrees. The humidity is high. One of the main reasons for visiting the Orinoco basin area is the flora and fauna. Over l,000 species of birds have been sighted which include toucans, macaws, parrots and a large nesting area of scarlet ibis. Also the area is home to a wide variety of animals such as otters, caimans, pink dolphins, monkeys and snakes. In Venezuela there are 5 Indian tribes each with their own language but the Warao of the Orinoco delta consider themselves Venezuela's original inhabitants. The Warao rely on dugout canoes which they fashion from giant sassafras and ceiba trees. We understand they happily paddle out to approaching yachts intent on trading with fish or baskets etc. A journey into the delta is described as a passage through time as the Warao Indians current lifestyle and customs bridge about 3 centuries. Oddly, a part of modern times, the B.B.C. world news on-line was to be the downfall of our adventure as we sadly read on Sept. 29/08 an article captioned "death and dismay in the Orinoco delta". In this article we read of a mysterious illness that has killed 40 of the Warao tribe. (possibly rabies in bats) At the same time we spoke with another cruiser who had just returned from the river as his wife took ill and at that time she lay in hospital in Chicago (for 2 weeks) with an undiagnosed illness. Our good judgement told us this was not the time for this adventure and sadly we abandoned our plans.

The Fuel Crisis - Chaguaramas, Trinidad It might seem odd for a sailboat to need fuel but in order to cool our refrigerator and charge our batteries (to supplement the wind generator) we need to run the diesel for one hour each day. We also use the engine for maneuvering in and out of anchorages or when heading into the wind. At times it is imperative that we have an engine for safety reasons. On August 25/08 the Trinidad Government decided to enforce a l7 year old law that prohibited the sale of fuel to foreign flagged vessels. As we would later find out the fuel we had been buying was subsidized by the government. The price being $l.50 TT (Trinidad & Tobago dollars - approximately .30 cents Canadian) per litre compared to the international fuel price of $5.85 TT ($l.l7 Cdn.) Prior to this ban we had witnessed large commercial vessels filling up at the fuel dock at Power Boats marina (Chaguaramas only fueling facility). Tanker trucks were adjacent to the dock to supply their huge needs. Reportedly some took as much as 40,000 litres of diesel fuel. During the crisis we would learn how some of the large vessels sold the fuel (up the island chain) as a profitable business. The ban on sales placed by the Government was meant to stop this practise but unfortunately the yachting community (also foreign flagged vessels) was caught in the middle. The "yachties" called a meeting and Ann (of Freya of Clyde) was appointed to represent them (l400 yachts "on the hard" and 150 in the water). In an effort to rectify the situation meetings were held and attended by YSATT (Yacht Services Association of Trinidad & Tobago), Power Boats Marina, Customs (Government) and the yachting community which was represented by Ann as well as Jesse (Members Only Maxi-Taxi Service). The story was reported in the newspaper 3 separate times. Interviews also ran on the radio and television. During the negotiating period Barry represented our anchorage (TTSA) and also was interviewed by the Guardian newspaper for their September 3rd article. We borrowed jerry jugs of fuel from our friends (on the hard) as we were extremely low when the ban on sales was placed. It was 3 weeks before Don Stollmeyer, owner of Power Boats Marina came to a solution to rectify the problem. He legally obtained a license to sell fuel at the international price and had a pump adjusted to do so. The net effect of 3 weeks of anguish in Trinidad's yachting community was a raise in diesel fuel cost to quadruple the price. Many cruisers were very unhappy about how things played out and threatened to not return next year. Time will tell.

Out & About in Trinidad - High Tea at St. Benedict's Monastery After our day of shopping in Chaguanas we headed off, across the rice fields, towards the mountains in the northeast to visit the Mt. St. Benedict's Monastery. Built in l9l2 and sitting 800 feet above the plains the monastery can be seen for miles around. It offers glorious views over Trinidad's central plains and mountains. The Pax (Latin for peace) guesthouse on the grounds is simple and comfortable. It was constructed in l9l6 to fulfill the Benedictine tradition of welcoming travellers. Also on the grounds is a very successful addiction rehab centre. With a boxy steeple tower forming the tallest portion of the complex, the imposing church was consecrated as an abbey in l947. The Monks make "heavenly" yogurt which is available for purchase throughout the island. We enjoyed a delicious high tea in the tea garden after we took in the stunning view. A soothing respite after a busy day.

Out & About in Trinidad - Chaguanas Chaguanas is one of Trinidad's great centres of Indian culture and one of it's oldest towns. In l840 Indian indentured labourers came to the area to work on sugar and cocoa estates. By l880 Chaguanas had become the most important market town in Central Trinidad. Today 40% of Trinidad's population is East Indian. As part of our day of sight-seeing with Jesse (Member's Only Maxi-Taxi Tours) we took in the unique and varied shopping experience Chaguanas offers. It ranged from up-scale East Indian women's shops that sold traditional garb (sequined saries and such), to street vendors hawking dirt cheap clothes, ornaments and fashion accessories. We also toured the massive 2 storey fruit and vegetable market.

Out & About in Trinidad - The Emperor Valley Zoo Though small by international standards, the Emperor Valley Zoo is reputedly the most extensive in the Caribbean. We spent a lovely afternoon viewing the zoo's substantial collection of animals, mostly local. Highlights were the macaws, big cats, monkeys, tropical fish and reptiles. We shared in an extraordinary event when a red howler monkey became enamored with Manon as she held hands and talked to him through the fence. The zoo was an excellent opportunity to get a close-up look at Trinidad's exotic birds and wild life such as the scarlet ibis, macaws, toucans, many varieties of monkeys, caimans, ocelots, tortoises, turtles, otters, snakes and fish. As well we saw many animals that were new to us such as brocket deer and quenk. A lovely day was had by all.

Out & About in Trinidad - The Royal Botanical Gardens I had the pleasure of enjoying a wonderful day out with fellow cruisers, Manon (La Bete), Lynn (High States), and Maryann (Mighty Sparrow), as we explored the botanical gardens and zoo in Trinidad's capital city, Port of Spain. The gardens were established in l8l8 and are home to one of the oldest collections of exotic plants and trees in the Western Hemisphere. A small cemetery in the middle of the gardens contains the crumbling gravestones of many of the island's governors. Manon (hiding in the African tulips) kept us smiling and entertained as we enjoyed a pleasant stroll through the 25 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds.

Out & About in Trinidad - the theatre Thanks to arrangements made by Carmelle off Taima I travelled along with 3 other ladies to an afternoon theatre performance at the University of the West Indies. We enjoyed the one-woman play "Gravity" which was written and performed by Tricia Collins (a Canadian sponsored work - Pickering Productions - Arts in Action). We travelled by maxi-taxi to the university grounds during a torrential down-pour. As we passed through the capital city (Port of Spain) we witnessed first-hand Trinidad's flooding problem. We saw cars abandoned in water up to their windows and road-side vendors up to their knees in it. While I was at the theatre enjoying a pleasant afternoon Barry was on-board our boat keeping very busy. The high winds and waves from the storm caused a 45' Hunter sailboat to drag through the anchorage sideways, picking up another boat's anchor on the way. Barry had a very wet and busy afternoon as he joined others in rescue efforts to minimize the damage. After an interesting day we all gathered; husbands and wives, for a special dinner at Peake's restaurant to share stories of our exciting adventures on that stormy day.