Wednesday, January 23, 2008






Shelter-Less Saba

Until the early 1970's Saba was thoroughly inaccessible. Everything had to come and go via Ladder Bay. This extraordinary landing on the leeward shore provides scant shelter from ocean swells. Some 800 steps are cut in the rock. The steepness of the steps and their elevation can be appreciated by looking at the old customs house (pictured), which is only half way up.
Our Doyle sailing guide states: Like all good hidden kingdoms Saba doesn't come easily, and the cruising sailor who wishes to visit must be prepared to pay the price of frustration in the face of the elements. We visited in a "fresh" NE-E wind. We spent an uncomfortable night on a mooring ball off Saba's west coast. In the morning we thought we'd give the south shore anchorage (Fort Bay) a try. To our surprise it was even worse. Determined to see this unique island we hooked on to a mooring ball and made land.
With reports of increasing winds and warnings from the marine park, as well as our tour guide, of Saba's erratic sea and ground swells, we set sail at 1500 hours, with a 20+ knot wind on the nose for the shelter of St. Martin.
Sadly, we missed our chance to snorkel in Saba's marine park (considered the best in the Caribbean). This coupled with Saba's mystic will undoubtedly see us return.
Anchor to anchor - Saba to Simpson Bay, St. Martin - 25 miles (tacks not included) - 11 hours.

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