Sunday, July 15, 2012

Chesapeake City - Chesapeake & Delaware Canal

We watched with interest the freighter traffic travelling through the canal between Delaware Bay (Atlantic Ocean) and the Chesapeake Bay.
We slipped out of the strong tidal current to spend a night on anchor in Chesapeake City which is situated on the canal.




Barry went off to the library in an attempt to download new tidal software onto our 2 Garmin GPS.  Unfortunately he was unsuccessful but did return with tide tables.  This information is imperative as we need to travel tomorrow not only through the rest of the canal but also all the way through Delaware Bay.  Our timing for taking best advantage of the tide is crucial.
Bugged

The night we sat on anchor in the Susquehanna National Wildlife Refuge on the Bush River was electric.
It was difficult to breathe with the heat index at 110 F.  The air was still and the sky was aglow with lightning.
We listed in the motionless night to the severe thunderstorm warnings being broadcast on the VHF radio. 
Fortunately we were able to swim in the fresh, jelly-fish free water in the afternoon but were forced below in the evening as millions of bugs lighted on Sea Star's deck.  So many were their numbers that we confused their buzzing for an engine left running. 

Despite our efforts to move them along the next morning, many travelled with us for days afterward.  All of them left behind a tiny green dot that defies removal.  Sea Star's decks may forever be speckled.
Bay bridge

We motor-sailed north on July 7th in very hot and very hazy conditions with a heat advisory forecast for the day of 110 degrees F.
It was quite exciting to pass under the Bay bridge. 
On the north side of the bridge a small helicopter buzzed around us taking photos which he offers for sale on-line (boatpix.com).  Much to our surprise when we were undersail in the Atlantic north of Cap May 5 days later we were buzzed by the same helicopter.  This guy has one big region to cover.
We travelled alongside the freighter channel for 5 & 1/2 hours today covering 25 miles, during which time we saw several freighters and over a dozen "cigarette" type boats.




We sat on anchor all alone that hot and stormy night in the Susquehanna National Wildlife Refuge which lies within the Aberdeen Proving Grounds Restricted area on the Bush River.
Knapp's Narrows to Whitehall Bay
Anchor to Anchor - 7 hours, 35 miles

With the 5 day forecast still offering no relief in sight from the heat, we lifted anchor and motored off towards the bay.
We took the "short-cut" through Tilghman Island at Knapp's Narrows and made our way to Whitehall Bay; 2 miles north of Annapolis, Maryland.
Barry took a run over in the dinghy to search for needed belts and pulleys.  As always, his gentle hand continues to nurse our diesel and refrigeration system along.




The further north one goes into The Chesapeake Bay the fresher the water becomes.  Happily, the jelly-fish found the water in Whitehall Bay to be too fresh and we were able to thankfully swim at last.
Hot enough for ya?

Our first week afloat was a hot and hazy sizzler as nearly all of the U.S. suffered through a record breaking week-long heat wave.  It was sweltering....heat index up to 110 degrees F.  Not only was it stifling but it was calm, dead calm.
We took cooling breaks in Cambridge's library between re-assembling and provisioning Sea Star.
In the hopes of finding a breath of air we headed out towards the bay to Oxford for the 4th of July fireworks.
Just before the fireworks started the moon crept up from the horizon - full and crimson.  If not for the dark sky it could easily have been mistaken for a brilliant sun-rise.  It no sooner made it's eerie appearance than it slipped behind thick clouds and was gone.
Barry, very resourcefully, rigged a $10. nylon Novack's hammock, that we had on board, into an excellent wind scoop for Sea Star's front hatch.
Sadly, the profusion of jelly-fish in the bay continue to dash our hopes of swimming.
Rendezvous with a spring tide
(Chesapeake Bay, Gateway Marina, Cambridge, Maryland)

After our dreadful experience last August of being aground for 2 days while attempting to get Sea Star hauled out as hurricane Irene approached, we rejoiced this July 2nd as she launched and floated on out into the Choptank River.
The timing was perfect:  a spring tide coupled with a stiff breeze blowing the sea into the marina from the bay.
We were delighted to find Sea Star in excellent condition after her brush with Irene last August.  What a wonderful difference it makes to store in a drier, less humid climate...no mold or mildew in sight.
Thanks to Nan, Val and Connor for baby-sitting Ryan.  This gave us the time needed to drive to Maryland and prepare Sea Star for launch in time for her rendezvous with the spring tide.
Happily our efforts were not in vain.

Sunday, November 20, 2011




RED SKY IN MORNING      HURRICANE IRENE 

On Tuesday, August 23rd Sea Star sat anchored out in Cambridge’s town harbour.   I stayed on board alone as my husband, Barry, left to return to Green Cove Springs, Florida to retrieve our car.  At that time the  weather   forecast was for fairly calm conditions; winds – south 10-15 gusting to 20 knots.  NOAA was forecasting that hurricane Irene would cross the Dominican Republic that day then proceed through the Turks and Caicos, the south-eastern Bahamas and arrive in the central Bahamas by Wednesday.  She was already a BIG storm with tropical storm conditions stretching 205 miles out from the eye.  She was expected to increase in strength and move in a north-west direction. 
Barry’s route south to Florida from our location in Cambridge, Maryland was by public transit to the Hyatt Regency Hotel on Hwy. 50 where he would meet a pre-arranged shuttle to Baltimore.  From there he would board an Amtrak train to Palatka, Florida to be met by a privately owned car and taken to the marina in Green Cove Springs.   Once there he faced an 812 mile drive back to Maryland.
He no sooner left when problems started to develop.  He reached the Hyatt Regency Hotel just in time to see the chandelier in their lobby swinging back and forth as a 5.8 magnitude earthquake was occurring, centered in nearby Richmond, Virginia.  The earthquake would not affect his shuttle ride to Baltimore but once he boarded the train his travel time would be greatly extended as the train spent many hours travelling at 20 mph for fear of aftershocks. 
By Wednesday NOAA forecasted a small craft advisory with south winds increasing to 25 knots.  As well, they advised that hurricane Irene, now a Category 3, would affect the mid-Atlantic coast (our location) by the week-end.  By mid-afternoon I was certain the increased winds had Sea Star dragging.  I solicited the assistance of the skipper on a nearby boat and with his help I lifted anchor and tied Sea Star alongside the harbour wall. 
By Thursday hurricane Irene crossed the northwest Bahamas with sustained winds of 115 mph with strengthening expected.  She was huge; registering hurricane force winds 70 miles out from her eye and tropical storm force winds 255 miles out.  Where I sat on board in Maryland, the small craft advisory continued as did the forecast of thunderstorms.  Irene was expected to cross our location on Saturday and Sunday.  Already I was starting to experience her fury.
I was very concerned as to when Barry would return as I knew we had to enter the marina to be hauled out, on a rising tide.  The opportunities of such before the hurricane hit were becoming very limited.   I decided if Barry didn’t arrive by Friday morning I would take Sea Star, by myself, across the river to the marina to catch the high tide as that would be the last opportunity before the hurricane’s arrival. 
As if by answer to my prayer, with great relief I welcomed Barry’s return Thursday afternoon at 2 o’clock.  Although he was very tired, with the hurricane’s approach we were extremely anxious to get hauled out.  We immediately headed Sea Star the 2 miles across the Choptank River to Gateway marina.  Since high tide had been just 1 hour prior to our arrival we thought there should still be enough depth to float us in and up to the travel-lift; well, we hoped so anyway.  Sadly, we found out you can’t float a sailboat on hopes as we went soundly aground.  Not only were we aground, but we were aground on a falling tide.  A few hours later Sea Star lay on her side in the muddy bottom.
The marina owner advised us that should we be able to get afloat and up to the dock on the next high tide, which was at l a.m., they would get us lifted out first thing in the morning.
It was a disturbing day all round.  As we waited on the tide we watched the activity around us as panic grew.  Local crab fishing boats joined the queue of yachts awaiting haul out in the line that stretched from the travel-lift all the way out the channel.  In the marina office I viewed photos of the devastation hurricane Isabel brought to the area in 2003.  As a result, the marina is now uninsurable.   The office phone was ringing non-stop.  Calls were from boaters south of the area who could find no place available to haul out.  They were running against time to seek shelter. 
While awaiting the high tide we spent the day dismantling, packing-up and winterizing the boat as we expected to return home once she was hauled out.  Unlike the others who were simply seeking shelter from the storm and would re-launch we were closing up for long-term storage. 
 Friday, on the 1 a.m. high tide, Barry very skilfully worked Sea Star free of the mud and floated her up to the dock.  We left her sitting second in line for the travel-lift and headed to a hotel to watch Irene’s approach on the weather channel and catch a few hours sleep.  We returned to the marina at 9 a.m. fully expecting to find Sea Star on land but sadly that was not the case.  The travel-lift crew had been unable to float her forward and chose to wait on the tide again as they brought shallower draft vessels in front of us to lift.  As well, a tragic event was unfolding in the marina.  One of the workers had attempted to move a heavy tool box, in the hopes of saving it from the expected storm surge, and it had fallen on him, severely breaking his leg.  As the ambulance whisked the injured worker away we wondered who would pay for his recovery, as we knew the marina had no insurance.   It was an ominous start to the day.  The calm air hung heavy with a feeling of foreboding. 
As the morning ticked away, the tide rose and finally 20 hours before Irene’s arrival we saw Sea Star hanging in the travel-lift slings as she was lifted to land.  It was a bittersweet moment.  We knew we would drive away to safety but our thoughts were with the locals we would leave behind who could only hope and pray the hurricane would spare them. 
Feeling we had done all that we could we left Sea Star with regret and trepidation on Friday, August 27th.  She was sitting on four boat stands on land no more than 2 to 3 feet above sea level.  The weather forecast was for 80 mph sustained winds, gusting to 115 mph, a 50% chance of tornados and a storm surge of 5-7 feet.  We felt that even though Sea Star was hauled out on land she would re-float!  The marina’s photos of hurricane Isabel in 2003 certainly gave us reason to believe this to be the case as they showed the marina office submerged by at least 4 feet of water.   What a strange predicament. 
As if this wasn’t enough to worry us, Sea Star was positioned right beside the 2 mile span bridge that crosses the Choptank River.  Posted along the bridge are warning signs regarding wind shear in high gusts.  Could we be situated in a worse place to face a hurricane?  Almost as if the pieces were falling into place for the perfect storm, the timing of when the hurricane would pass our location would coincide with the new moon and add an additional 2 feet of spring tide to the usual 4 feet along with the forecasted 5 – 7 foot storm surge.
We found it disquieting to hear news that areas of New York City were evacuating for the first time ever.
With a feeling of anxious despair we joined the gridlock of traffic exiting the area by way of the evacuation route and started on our way home.  We arrived in London at 9 p.m. Saturday night, just in time to watch on the weather channel as the eye of Irene (now a category 1 hurricane) passed just to the east of Sea Star’s location.
A later call to our marina in Maryland gave us the welcomed news that they’d “dodged a bullet” with Irene.  We won’t be returning to Sea Star until next summer, but we have been told she sustained no damage.  Since the hurricane passed just east of the bay, the storm’s counter-clockwise wind direction helped to push the water out of the Chesapeake Bay rather than the expected storm surge flowing in.
Sailing is all about adventure.   We can’t help but wonder what next summer will bring?




#8 - Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Cambridge, Maryland (also LaTrappe creek)
Our attempt to leave Solomon Island on August 16, 2011 came to a quick end as we were unable to get the engine started.  Luckily, while Barry was attempting to locate a place that might charge our battery a small boat that was crabbing beside us lent the use of his battery to get us fired up. 
Since we've entered the bay, rarely, when anchored, do we not have someone crabbing beside us.  They use the method of dropping a baited line and running along it in their boats with a net to scoop the crabs into a bucket on board.  The crabs are caught as fast as they can scoop them up.  This particular fisherman had 70 crabs already, having made only a few sweeps up and down his line.  We're surprised anyone buys crabs as they seem to be so easily caught.
We left the Solomon's at first light on August 17th in calm conditions.  Ten hours later, exhausted, we made Cambridge (43 miles).  On our approach to Cambridge, we got a glimpse of the marina on the north shore of the Choptank River where we hope to haul out in 9 days time.
We spent a less than peaceful night anchored in Cambridge's harbour adjacent to the Dorchester County Building.  Also adjacent to the noisy lift bridge and hourly chiming town clock.
On August 18th, we ventured across the Choptank River to make arrangements at Gateway Marina to haul out on August 26th for long term storage.  The owner advised that we should make our approach on a rising tide due to depth issues in the channel.  On this visit we anchored Sea Star out in the river and came in by dinghy.
We returned for the night to the town harbour at Cambridge and took the opportunity to do laundry, shop and enjoy dinner out.
The next morning, a brief 4 mile motor west along the Choptank River brought us to a very peaceful anchorage in the LaTrappe creek.  After Cambridge's harbour we relished the calm, quiet seclusion.




We spent 3 days in LaTrappe creek before we headed back to anchor once again in Cambridge's town harbour as Barry would head off for Florida the next day to retrieve our car.
#7 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Solomon's Island (Mill Creek), Maryland


We were still in smokey conditions when we joined the heavy boat traffic entering the Solomon's and dropped  anchor in Mill Creek.   The large number of sailboats at this very popular location remind us of Annapolis. This is our 7th anchorage since we entered Chesapeake Bay 15 days ago.
We took our dinghy to nose around the area and check on haul out and storage prices.  There are an amazing number of marinas, slips and boats here. 
We enjoyed the otters, sting rays, skates, crabs, turtles and jelly-fish we saw at the Calvert marine museum.  Their grounds house an 1883 Drum Point Lighthouse.
We've pretty much decided to haul out in Cambridge, Maryland so Barry used the wi-fi available at this location to research options of travel for him to get from Cambridge back to Florida to retrieve our car.  While he did so, I took the bus across the Patuxent River to check out the Target store located there.  :)






# 6 - Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Smith Creek (north shore of Potomac River), Maryland

What a delight it was to drop anchor in this secluded, deep water, tree-lined location.  We spent a lay day here all by ourselves and relaxed in this quiet, cool anchorage but unfortunately the dense smoke that greeted us the next morning saw us underway again, this time 32 miles north to the Solomon's.  It would appear the Great Dismal Swamp is still burning.
# 5 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Tangier Island, Virginia
By 2:30 p.m. we were in clear air, tied to a piling dock at Park's Marina, Tangier Island.  We had no sooner tied up then the 80 year old owner, Milton Parks, whisked us away in his golf cart (all 3 of us in the front seat) for a tour of the island.
We were fascinated with the uniqueness of this tiny island: population, 605 living in a total of 244 homes, mode of transportation: golf carts, motor-cycles, bicycle or foot, no ATM's or banks, no booze, extremely limited internet access, relatives buried in front yards as no where else to put them.  We had no choice but to settle down to the islander's pace of life and enjoy.  
We arrived with no cash but still managed to dock ($30 per night - we mailed him a cheque when we got back home) and to rent a golf cart to sight-see (payment also by cheque).  We used our credit card to enjoy a scrumptious fresh flounder dinner at a restaurant, provision and to buy souvenirs.  
We enjoyed touring the island's museum, walking the 1 and 1/2 mile beach and learning all about the soft shell crab industry.
We heard of their troubles: 1. the island is shrinking due to global warming, 2. the watermen's lively hood is threatened as the government has put restrictions on crab fishing (locals here not educated enough or up to the culture shock of moving to the mainland), 3. many of the young people are leaving the island as they see no future there, 4. when bay freezes in the winter they're cut off from supplies on the mainland, 5. hurricanes (storm surges) causing extensive flooding (land barely above sea level)
Two days later and much wiser for our visit we manoeuvred our way off the pilings in the stiff wind and stiffer current and set sail back across to the west coast of the bay (Maryland).




# 4 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Fishing Bay, (Piankatank River/ Jackson Creek) Virginia
We had a gorgeous sail north today in a perfect light breeze but unfortunately fell 20 miles short of our planned destination.  Luckily we found a deep, "easy-entry" anchorage at Fishing Bay.
As we travel north "gunk-holing" we continue to check on haul out options for the end of August (3 weeks from now). 
What a strange awakening we had today as we found the visibility poor (less than 1/2 mile) due to smoke.  The weather transmission from N.O.A.A. tells us a forest fire is burning south of us in the Great Dismal Swamp.  In an effort to sail out of the smoke we headed, yet again, back across the bay to anchor in Tangier Island. 
# 3 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Sarah Creek, Virginia
We sailed in light east winds the 25 miles back across to the west coast of the bay and spent 3 nights anchored in Sarah Creek, Virginia.
We were enticed by the prospect of visiting a farmer's market, shops and museums in Yorktown, 3 miles across the York River, so we decided to dinghy over.  We spent a pleasant day exploring the market, Yorktown Historic Victory Centre and the Watermen's museum, but cut our visit short as the wind picked up and the weather worsened.  We had a wild dinghy ride back across the river through the swell.  In the pouring rain Barry drove and I bailed as we had many waves wash over the dinghy's bow.
The bay is chock full of not only blue crabs, but also jelly- fish and clams.  Each time we re-anchor we are having to knock them off of our ground tackle.



# 2 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Kiptopeke Beach State Park, Virginia
We sailed 25 miles across the bay from the west coast to the east to spend 2 nights anchored at Kiptopeke Beach State Park.  Their extraordinary break-wall is made up of 9 submerged, cement Liberty ships (used in the second world war to transport troops).  While here we took part in the park's seine net interpretive program and learned about the sea creatures in the area - blue crabs, pipe fish, horse-shoe crabs, sea nettles, fish (flounder, gar fish, sea Robin's, toad fish), oysters, mussels, clams, bull sharks, dolphins, shrimp and rays.
The shoreline is deep with blue crabs.  We're not surprised to read that 60 million pounds of blue crabs are harvested in Chesapeake Bay each year. We are surprised to hear that a limit has been put on licenses to watermen in an attempt to raise the crab population.
While anchored here we had a chance to explore and observe different fishing methods such as pound nets and crab traps.



# 1 - Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Hampton Rds, Virginia
We spent 3 nights anchored off Hampton Rds. Virginia.
We found the visitor's centre here to be most accommodating as we made use of their showers, and free wi-fi.  The weather channel on the centre's t.v. predicts tropical storm Emily will come up the coast and reach our area by the end of the week.  We formulated a plan to return and tie up to the town dock here should Emily arrive as predicted.
The extreme heat continues to kick-up severe thunderstorms.
We are shocked to see very limited hours of operation on the "tourist" shops.  Definitely a sign that tourism is extremely low.