Asa Wright Nature Centre - The Lodge An overnight stay at Asa Wright is all inclusive. The excellent cuisine served reflects the varied ethnicity of the people of Trinidad. A mix of West Indian Creole, Indian, Oriental and European style dishes are served. Rates include accommodation (cottages with private balconies), all meals, high tea at 4 p.m. and rum punch at sunset. Expertly conducted guided tours are also included on the network of well-marked trails through out the grounds. We joined in on a night walk and were amazed to see tarantula spiders and scorpions.

Asa Wright Nature Centre - Trinidad Asa Wright, a beautiful 26 room lodge on a 200 acre conservation area is a wildlife sanctuary situated at an elevation of 1200 feet in the lush rainforest of North Trinidad. The centre was originally a coffee, citrus and cocoa plantation. In 1967 a nonprofit making trust was set up which established a nature centre to accommodate naturalists and bird watchers, a first in the Caribbean. This nonprofit organization revolves around its nearly century-old house, with a verandah overlooking the spectacular Arima valley. At 360 metres above sea level the views of the rainforest are incredible and since the birds have been fed at this location since 1950, the verandah attracts a huge variety (up to 40 species per day).

Asa Wright Nature Centre - A Birder's Paradise With more than 430 recorded types of birds Trinidad & Tobago ranks among the world's best bird watching. Over 170 species of birds have been recorded for the Arima Valley where the Asa Wright centre is located. Situated within the grounds is the most accessible colony of nocturnal oilbirds in the world. While at the centre the birds we sighted were: the bearded bellbird, a channel billed toucan, numerous hummingbirds including the tufted coquette, ruby topaz and white crested emerald Jacobin, red-legged honeycreeper, green honeycreeper, blue gray tanager, male and female white lined tanager, silver beaked tanager, yellow oriole, blue crowned Motmot, crested orapendula and bananaquit, as well as many others we didn't identify. We didn't sight, but did hear the endangered oilbirds and a pygmy owl. The feeders were an absolute delight to view as a great profusion of birds of every colour imaginable gathered.

Trini Treats While on our outing we stopped at a road-side stand to purchase locally made candies (many unusual preparations of local fruits). We also had a chance to try sugar apple fruit and chenets. When opened the sugar apples contained many large seeds coated in white pulp which one "sucked" off then spit out the seeds. We found the chenets to be very similar to litchi fruit. They have smooth green skin and a large seed surrounded by a thin covering of sweet, slightly acidic flesh. A locally prepared breakfast treat that we've enjoyed is "sahina" which is a ground channa and dasheen leaf fritter. It is served topped with "chutney" (curried chick peas) and pepper (hot sauce). We're surprised to note that the local pizza chains have a large bottle of "pepper" (hot sauce) on the counter. The locals pour a liberal layer on top of their pizza. Obviously an acquired taste. Fresh fruits available locally are mangos, avocado, banana, pineapple, melons, oranges, limes and paw paw (papaya). The fruits are a delicious treat and we are told so also is the monk fish that we found for sale at the market. Funny looking fellow, for sure.

Trinidad - North Coast and Santa Cruz Valley The route from Chaguaramas to Maracas beach is one of Trinidad's most dramatic drives, teetering along 300 metre cliffs and tunnelling past precipices of teeming rainforest with the occasional view of faraway peaks swinging into sight. We admired the gorgeous setting of St. Andrew's golf course; located in Santa Cruz valley.

Maracas Beach -Bake n Shark Heralded to offer the best "bake n shark" in Trini is Richards on Maracas beach. We travelled, along with other cruisers, across Trinidad's northern mountain range to enjoy the tasty treat. Interspersed with the lush green of the rainforest was the brilliant red blooms of chaconia (wild poinsettia) - the national flower of Trinidad and Tobago. A swim in the surf at Maracas beach had our appetites keen and we had to agree it was by far the best bake n shark we have ever eaten. The drive through the mountains and rainforest coupled with the gorgeous location of Maracas beach made our lunch outing a treat for all of our senses. (Bake n shark is slabs of shark meat sandwiched between pieces of fried bread, topped with assorted garnishes).

What a Nut! While touring in Trinidad we purchased a brazil nut pod from a road side fruit and vegetable stand. The cost was 40 TT (Trinidad and Tobago dollars - approximately $7.50 Canadian). The Rastafarian salesman was very clear in his instructions for the pod (bluntly so in his description of the aphrodisiac qualities of the plant matter surrounding the nuts inside). We were to wait for the pod to pop open, which it did in 1 week, remove the nuts and lay them in the sun to dry (our pod contained 48 nuts) then "brew up" a beverage out of the pulp remaining. Needless to say we have new respect for the effort required to produce that "handful" of mixed nuts that we take for granted. Frankly I can't imagine how it is possible for us to purchase them so cheaply. While in Grenada we saw that each cashew is part of one whole fruit on the tree - one nut per fruit. The harvesting process must be immense. We will appreciate and savour them more from now on.

All the Monkeys aren't in the Zoo Photos of white-fronted, whining capuchin and red howler monkeys from our interactive encounter with them at Bush Bush Island in the Nariva swamp.

Nariva Swamp We were very fortunate to visit Trinidad's largest fresh-water wetland, the Nariva swamp. Located on Trinidad's east coast, the protected swamp land is edged by the "coconut estates" (a large coconut farming area) as well as the Manzanilla-Mayaro road which runs the length of the breathtakingly beautiful, raw east coast ocean beach. Designated a "Wetland of International Importance" this 32 square mile area is a unique fresh-water ecosystem that harbours large concentrations of rare wildlife; including manatees. Located in the swamp is a 3 metre high, small, heavily forested island known as Bush Bush Island; home to troops of white-fronted whining capuchin and red howler monkeys. Our travel into the swamp was by pirogue which took us along a narrow river edged by reed filled marshes and eerie mangroves (lots of crabs scurrying in the black mud). After we had progressed about a mile the river became too shallow for the pirogue and we set off on foot, in the ankle high mud swamp, for shore on Bush Bush Island. Our efforts were rewarded as we located and interacted with approximately 8 capuchin monkeys and several howlers. We were unable to make a sighting of the 60 macaws that have been reintroduced into the area but did find 2 of their long blue and yellow feathers. On our departure from Bush Bush Island we had a very fast and exciting pirogue ride in the rain as we skirted the mangroves along the narrow, winding river. Our memories, on this our 36th wedding anniversary, were of our awesome, thrilling encounter with both capuchin and howler monkeys. Truly an experience we will always remember.

Water - The Sea and the Rain Our anchorage at TTSA is directly across open water from Trinidad's capital city, Port of Spain (population 450,000). As we bide our time here during the rainy season we are appalled at the debris that washes in to the sea during each rainfall not to mention the horrendous oil slick. Navigating the waters through the garbage and slick is one thing, through the huge logs and timber that wash down the rivers from the rainforest, is quite another. We are encouraged to hear talk of a plan to introduce recycling, as well, anti-littering education is underway. Sadly the locals are not disturbed to see that the mammoth oil industry operating here experiences a "small spill" now and then.