#8 - Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Cambridge, Maryland (also LaTrappe creek)
Our attempt to leave Solomon Island on August 16, 2011 came to a quick end as we were unable to get the engine started.  Luckily, while Barry was attempting to locate a place that might charge our battery a small boat that was crabbing beside us lent the use of his battery to get us fired up. 
Since we've entered the bay, rarely, when anchored, do we not have someone crabbing beside us.  They use the method of dropping a baited line and running along it in their boats with a net to scoop the crabs into a bucket on board.  The crabs are caught as fast as they can scoop them up.  This particular fisherman had 70 crabs already, having made only a few sweeps up and down his line.  We're surprised anyone buys crabs as they seem to be so easily caught.
We left the Solomon's at first light on August 17th in calm conditions.  Ten hours later, exhausted, we made Cambridge (43 miles).  On our approach to Cambridge, we got a glimpse of the marina on the north shore of the Choptank River where we hope to haul out in 9 days time.
We spent a less than peaceful night anchored in Cambridge's harbour adjacent to the Dorchester County Building.  Also adjacent to the noisy lift bridge and hourly chiming town clock.
On August 18th, we ventured across the Choptank River to make arrangements at Gateway Marina to haul out on August 26th for long term storage.  The owner advised that we should make our approach on a rising tide due to depth issues in the channel.  On this visit we anchored Sea Star out in the river and came in by dinghy.
We returned for the night to the town harbour at Cambridge and took the opportunity to do laundry, shop and enjoy dinner out.
The next morning, a brief 4 mile motor west along the Choptank River brought us to a very peaceful anchorage in the LaTrappe creek.  After Cambridge's harbour we relished the calm, quiet seclusion.

We spent 3 days in LaTrappe creek before we headed back to anchor once again in Cambridge's town harbour as Barry would head off for Florida the next day to retrieve our car.

#7 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Solomon's Island (Mill Creek), Maryland

We were still in smokey conditions when we joined the heavy boat traffic entering the Solomon's and dropped  anchor in Mill Creek.   The large number of sailboats at this very popular location remind us of Annapolis. This is our 7th anchorage since we entered Chesapeake Bay 15 days ago.
We took our dinghy to nose around the area and check on haul out and storage prices.  There are an amazing number of marinas, slips and boats here. 
We enjoyed the otters, sting rays, skates, crabs, turtles and jelly-fish we saw at the Calvert marine museum.  Their grounds house an 1883 Drum Point Lighthouse.
We've pretty much decided to haul out in Cambridge, Maryland so Barry used the wi-fi available at this location to research options of travel for him to get from Cambridge back to Florida to retrieve our car.  While he did so, I took the bus across the Patuxent River to check out the Target store located there.  :)

# 6 - Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Smith Creek (north shore of Potomac River), Maryland

What a delight it was to drop anchor in this secluded, deep water, tree-lined location.  We spent a lay day here all by ourselves and relaxed in this quiet, cool anchorage but unfortunately the dense smoke that greeted us the next morning saw us underway again, this time 32 miles north to the Solomon's.  It would appear the Great Dismal Swamp is still burning.

# 5 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Tangier Island, Virginia
By 2:30 p.m. we were in clear air, tied to a piling dock at Park's Marina, Tangier Island.  We had no sooner tied up then the 80 year old owner, Milton Parks, whisked us away in his golf cart (all 3 of us in the front seat) for a tour of the island.
We were fascinated with the uniqueness of this tiny island: population, 605 living in a total of 244 homes, mode of transportation: golf carts, motor-cycles, bicycle or foot, no ATM's or banks, no booze, extremely limited internet access, relatives buried in front yards as no where else to put them.  We had no choice but to settle down to the islander's pace of life and enjoy.  
We arrived with no cash but still managed to dock ($30 per night - we mailed him a cheque when we got back home) and to rent a golf cart to sight-see (payment also by cheque).  We used our credit card to enjoy a scrumptious fresh flounder dinner at a restaurant, provision and to buy souvenirs.  
We enjoyed touring the island's museum, walking the 1 and 1/2 mile beach and learning all about the soft shell crab industry.
We heard of their troubles: 1. the island is shrinking due to global warming, 2. the watermen's lively hood is threatened as the government has put restrictions on crab fishing (locals here not educated enough or up to the culture shock of moving to the mainland), 3. many of the young people are leaving the island as they see no future there, 4. when bay freezes in the winter they're cut off from supplies on the mainland, 5. hurricanes (storm surges) causing extensive flooding (land barely above sea level)
Two days later and much wiser for our visit we manoeuvred our way off the pilings in the stiff wind and stiffer current and set sail back across to the west coast of the bay (Maryland).

# 4 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Fishing Bay, (Piankatank River/ Jackson Creek) Virginia
We had a gorgeous sail north today in a perfect light breeze but unfortunately fell 20 miles short of our planned destination.  Luckily we found a deep, "easy-entry" anchorage at Fishing Bay.
As we travel north "gunk-holing" we continue to check on haul out options for the end of August (3 weeks from now). 

What a strange awakening we had today as we found the visibility poor (less than 1/2 mile) due to smoke.  The weather transmission from N.O.A.A. tells us a forest fire is burning south of us in the Great Dismal Swamp.  In an effort to sail out of the smoke we headed, yet again, back across the bay to anchor in Tangier Island. 

# 3 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Sarah Creek, Virginia
We sailed in light east winds the 25 miles back across to the west coast of the bay and spent 3 nights anchored in Sarah Creek, Virginia.
We were enticed by the prospect of visiting a farmer's market, shops and museums in Yorktown, 3 miles across the York River, so we decided to dinghy over.  We spent a pleasant day exploring the market, Yorktown Historic Victory Centre and the Watermen's museum, but cut our visit short as the wind picked up and the weather worsened.  We had a wild dinghy ride back across the river through the swell.  In the pouring rain Barry drove and I bailed as we had many waves wash over the dinghy's bow.
The bay is chock full of not only blue crabs, but also jelly- fish and clams.  Each time we re-anchor we are having to knock them off of our ground tackle.

# 2 Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Kiptopeke Beach State Park, Virginia
We sailed 25 miles across the bay from the west coast to the east to spend 2 nights anchored at Kiptopeke Beach State Park.  Their extraordinary break-wall is made up of 9 submerged, cement Liberty ships (used in the second world war to transport troops).  While here we took part in the park's seine net interpretive program and learned about the sea creatures in the area - blue crabs, pipe fish, horse-shoe crabs, sea nettles, fish (flounder, gar fish, sea Robin's, toad fish), oysters, mussels, clams, bull sharks, dolphins, shrimp and rays.
The shoreline is deep with blue crabs.  We're not surprised to read that 60 million pounds of blue crabs are harvested in Chesapeake Bay each year. We are surprised to hear that a limit has been put on licenses to watermen in an attempt to raise the crab population.

While anchored here we had a chance to explore and observe different fishing methods such as pound nets and crab traps.

# 1 - Chesapeake Bay gunk-holing - Hampton Rds, Virginia
We spent 3 nights anchored off Hampton Rds. Virginia.
We found the visitor's centre here to be most accommodating as we made use of their showers, and free wi-fi.  The weather channel on the centre's t.v. predicts tropical storm Emily will come up the coast and reach our area by the end of the week.  We formulated a plan to return and tie up to the town dock here should Emily arrive as predicted.
The extreme heat continues to kick-up severe thunderstorms.
We are shocked to see very limited hours of operation on the "tourist" shops.  Definitely a sign that tourism is extremely low.

Virginia
We spent 3 hot, steamy nights amidst the beautiful crape myrtle trees in the park area at Great Bridge's town dock.  We took the opportunity to provision, do laundry, get propane and undertake repairs (alternator etc).
The locals had great luck crabbing on the dock alongside us, while we watched in awe as the huge barges made their way through the bridge and into the adjacent lock.

We navigated the strong current into the north bound lock on July 3lst and made our way in the cool rain to Norfolk - mile one of the ICW. We'd travelled 790 miles in 17 days.
As always we found the scene in Norfolk to be an intimidating one.  The shore is lined with all manner of warships.  We didn't wave hello to the fellow on the roof-top who had his machine gun pointed in our direction.  Norfolk never seems very welcoming.
It was with great relief that we set off into the open water of Chesapeake Bay. 

North Carolina
By the time we reached Cape Fear River our waterpump had broken.  Barry continued to work on the engine in an effort to keep us moving along, but, as always finding replacement parts proved to be a challenge. 
At Carolina beach we delighted in a beautiful evening breeze after yet another day of travelling with a heat advisory.  It was fun to watch the ferris wheel off in the distance that night, along with a fireworks display. 
A stop at Wrightsville Beach for parts proved to be a futile effort however we did enjoy their gorgeous beach which is adjacent to Wilmington. 
Our progress was slowed greatly by the dreadful silting problem in the area.  It seemed that every time we passed an inlet we'd be aground.
We're certainly not alone anymore as we find ourselves passing through areas of heavy boat traffic and jet-skis. We put the jib up whenever possible to catch the ocean breeze and motor-sail. Finally, we've reached 35 degrees north latitude - great news as our boat insurance is now valid.
The extreme heat and thunderstorms seem to be constant.  In the Pungo River we were unable to find shelter and were forced to drop anchor in the open water for 2 hours as we endured 30mph (plus) sustained winds during a storm.  We both ducked as lightning crashed just off our stern .  The resulting thunder rolled and repeated across the heavens for many seconds.  Our hearts were thumping!!
We are diligent about monitoring the weather as the depressions continue to keep forming and strengthening.
Finally on July 27th we had a change of weather.

Unfortunately this delayed our progress as heavy fog blanketed Albemarle Sound.  Our late departure left us caught without an anchorage location for the night and we were forced to drop anchor at dark along the edge of the narrow, shallow channel.  We positioned ourselves beside a flashing green mark and left our radio and several anchor lights on.  The extremely narrow channel is edged by shallows or pilings.  We felt no one could possibly navigate it in the dark.  What a huge surprise it was when a 300 foot barge (pushed by a tug boat), passed beside us in the night.  We lifted anchor at first light, made our way along the Albemarle and Chesapeake canal, through 2 lift bridges and happily tied up to the free town dock at Great Bridge, Virginia.

South Carolina - Heat, Expensive Homes, Beaches, Swamp and Alligators
After miles and miles of monotonous travel through the Georgia marshland we were thankful for more interesting scenery in South Carolina.
We continued to monitor the weather diligently.  On July 17th we heard news that tropical storm Brett had formed in the Bahamas and was expected to strengthen and head our way.  News like this kept us worried and pushing hard northward. 
Now that the sails are finally attached we started motor-sailing to ease the boredom of the ride.
We enjoy watching the great number of dolphins that share the "ditch" with us but were quite surprised when we saw a large alligator swim across in front of us.  Yikes!!
We continue to go aground quite regularly in the shallow, silted waterway.  We're told dredging operations are at a stand-still due to financial problems the states are experiencing plus it's off season - not a priority.  Luckily, Barry is very good at getting Sea Star to slide her way through the shallows.
This has got to be a record hot summer!!  Heat advisories continue to be issued.  July 10th - 110 degrees - absolutely sweltering!!
At times we still find ourselves in the marsh, though here it's referred to as the "low lands" - that does sound better. 
We viewed hundreds of Osprey and turtles as we passed through the cypress swamp (National Wildlife Refuge).
Tropical storm Cindy formed just as we made our way into North Carolina.

It's lonely in the Georgia Marsh
While travelling through Georgia's marshland we continued to experience extreme heat and record rainfall.  We keep working on refitting Sea Star (wind generator, sails on, solar panel, dinghy repairs.....) By the time we get her together it will be time to start taking her apart again.
Our travels through the 8-9 foot tidal flow of the Georgia marsh is by way of winding canals, rivers and past sounds (opening on to the Atlantic Ocean).
We are continually delighted by the many dolphins and Osprey that keep us company.

Florida (& Sea Star) bound

On July 5, 2011 we set off by car from our home in London, Ontario for Sea Star in Green Cove Springs, Florida. She had been laying on the hard for 14 months. Our plan was to launch her and motor north along the Inter-coastal waterway to Chesapeake Bay where we would, in 6 weeks time, once again haul out and head back home until next summer.

As we were travelling during hurricane season we planned to make haste and get as far north as quickly as possible as our insurance was void as long as we were south of 35 degrees latitude.

We spent a week sight-seeing by car on our way south, stopping to camp in 4 different National Forests: Allegheny National Forest - Pennsylvania, Monongahela National Forest - West Virginia, First Landing State Park - Virginia Beach, Virginia and Neuse River Croaton National Forest - North Carolina.

We explored the Atlantic Seashore (Outer Banks) in North Carolina, stopping to watch the wild surf crash on the spectacular beach for as far as the eye could see.

While In St. Augustine, Florida on July 11th, we enjoyed dinner and "caught up on the news" with fellow cruiser friends, Jeff & Carolee (boat Contessa).

We launched Sea Star on July 12th in a record high heat wave and spent the next 2 nights tied to the marina's pier while we provisioned, cleaned, repaired and re-fit her for travel.

Severe thunderstorms due to the extreme heat slowed our passage as we made our way on July 14th amidst the dolphins out the St. John River to the ICW.

We travelled nearly all alone amidst an amazing variety and proliferation of shorebirds which included egrets and ibis. We even had 3 separate sightings of pink spoonbills.

To our delight we sighted 2 manatees alongside at the Florida/Georgia state line (Amelia Island). We drifted silently along beside them to observe and marvel at their beauty.