Grow-op? Sea Star is going green! Before we left Sea Star "on the hard" in Grenada we undertook several steps to hopefully keep the air flowing in the sealed cabin and thereby minimize mold or mildew growth. a) we mounted our new 130 watt solar panel in the cock-pit and hooked it up to the batteries, b) we installed 4 - 4" fans (computer fans), one at the base of each dorade vent in the cabin roof c) we installed 2 - 12 volt fans to run off the batteries d) we went to great pains to thoroughly wash all surface in a disinfectant solution followed by a vinegar rinse e) we made and installed foil coverings for each hatch and window f) we laid out trays of roach and insect poison g) we left the drains open in case any water should find its way in h) and we caulked the outside edges of the windows to curtail any leakage that may take place. So, basically, we've covered all the windows and increased the power inside - not so unlike a grow-op. We plan on returning to Sea Star in January 2010. Hopefully we'll find our efforts were not too in vain.

Hauling in Grenada - Sea Star is "on the hard" Our cruising time was limited this year as we happily headed back home to Canada to await the arrival of our first grandchild. We hauled Sea Star out of the water at Grenada Marine, St. David's Harbour on Grenada's southeast coast on March 10th, 2009. The boats stored in this marina reported considerably less damage than other locations in Grenada when hurricane Ivan passed over the island in 2004. Credit is given to the mountain that closely edges the marina on its north and east side, offering considerable shelter. As well, the sea entrance to St. David's Harbour is narrow, sided to the east by a headland and to the west by a substantial reef. The marina yard feels snug and secure.

What's so good about Grenada? The "isle of spice" is wonderful in so many ways it's hard to know where to begin. The tiki bar in Prickly Bay is undoubtedly one of the top spots in the Caribbean to meet and chat with other cruisers. We always look forward to seeing who's there and hearing of their adventures. As well as an excellent meeting place Grenada also offers an active cruiser's net each morning on the VHF radio, two good chandlers (Island water world and Budget marine), many organized get-togethers and activities for cruisers, shopping excursions to good provisioning locations, excellent, inexpensive transportation and reasonably priced, easily accessible restaurants. The friendly, helpful Grenadians have made their island an "easy" location for cruisers and because of them many have stayed on long-term. With cruisers sharing horror stories of pirates, murders, crime and corruption in Trinidad and Venezuela it's no wonder Grenada's safe, friendly atmosphere has become a welcoming option for many as a location to spend hurricane season. Grenada has not been without hurricanes in the past: l954 - Hazel - Category 1 2004 - Ivan - Category 3 2005 - Emily - Category 2 but sadly many find that even the threat of a hurricane encounter is less than facing possible terrors further south.

South to Grenada As we were still suspicious of the sea conditions we decided to start south to Grenada by way of a short hop to Carriacou. Anchor to anchor - Clifton Harbour, Union Island to Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou - 2.5 hours - l0.7 miles The next morning we made a 5 a.m. departure from Carriacou in fair conditions and sailed into Prickly Bay, located on Grenada's south coast, a short 7 hours later. Anchor to anchor - 38.8 miles We arrived right on schedule to rendezvous with our friend, Neal (Dream Chaser - U.K.) and take delivery from him of a solar panel that he kindly transported from Trinidad for us.

Excitement in the wind As the wind continued to blow we made our way to the limited, rock and rolly shelter behind Clifton Harbour's reef at Union Island. Regrettably a gear stripped in our Lewmar (don't buy one) windlass. The result of this mechanical failure is that Barry has the dirty and daunting chore of physically lifting up to 160 feet of chain off the bottom every time we move. On February 22, 2009 in less than 4 hours Barry lifted 70 feet of chain 3 times, once in the strong current between the Tobago Cays islands and twice in the cramped Clifton Harbour anchorage (as a result of dragging and an hour-glass in the genoa sail). All three times in 25-30 knot wind. We took a couple of days off from "the wind" and toured Clifton Harbour. We enjoyed viewing the sharks in their pool, at the hotel, adjacent to the harbour. We also sampled some fresh produce that was available at the island's many colourful stands. Wi-fi worked well at Union Island; always a great distraction in bad weather.

History of Union Island' Union Island was settled as early as 5400 BC by tribes from South America, however, the present population is a mixture of African and European descendants. The French were the first Europeans, arriving before l763. They were followed by the British to whom the French ceded the island in l763. Slavery was abolished in l834, thereafter some residents continued to cultivate the land, growing mainly corn and peas. Many however became sea farers - a tradition that continues today.

Union Island (St. Vincent and the Grenadines) As the sign on Union Island's shore states: Union Island is the most southerly of that crescent of scattered jewels numbering as many as 50 which comprise the state of St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Five kilometers long and half that in width, the island is positioned some 44 miles south of St. Vincent and has a population of approximately 2,000. The two main centres of population are Clifton Harbour and Ashton - names redolent of our colonial past. Clifton Harbour serves as the administrative capital of the island. Outlined against the azure skies is the highest point in all the Grenadines, Mt. Tabor (1,000 feet). Such volcanic features have inspired many to call us "Little Tahiti".

Red Sky in Morning We experienced rough weather during our stop in the Tobago Cays on this passage. The "red sky in morning" was truly a clue to "take warning". We took shelter tucked in between Petit Bateau and Petit Rameau behind the horseshoe reef. Here we bounced on anchor in 12 feet of water over sand bottom for 3 and a half days as the squalls passed and wind whistled through our rigging. Although we shook and bounced considerably while the palm trees on shore were bent over we luckily were sheltered from the rough and confused "significant" sea conditions created by the strong winds and numerous squalls. The seas were a mix of a 4 meter north swell along with a 4 meter east swell plus a 2.5 meter wind wave. On the VHF radio we listened as St. Vincent issued a safety warning to its local fishermen to be wary of rip currents generated by the rough to very rough sea conditions. We were "sand blasted" as we attempted to stroll on the beach and sadly snorkeling was not possible in the murky water. We decided to abandon our hopes of snorkeling and head to Union Island when we heard the weather forecast February 22: A well defined upper level high was creating a tight pressure gradient (6.5 to 7 millibars) between 10 and 20 degrees north latitude all the way back to 30 degrees west longitude. This equalled fresh to strong winds (20-30 knots) in a mostly easterly directions, 4 to 4.5 meter sea with a 9-10 second interval (short) between the swells plus a short interval 2.5 to 3 meter wind wave, combined with a 4 meter north swell. (very rough sea conditions) Patches of low level cumulus clouds were being dragged into the Caribbean by the strong trade wind flow. The Barbados weather office forecasted up to 55 mph winds.

Tobago Cays Marine Park - St. Vincent and the Grenadines The Tobago Cays were declared a wildlife preserve in l998. The huge horseshoe reef that protects these five islets, with their dazzling, palm studded shorelines, provides some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. The brilliant, powdery-white sand, the coloured waters shaded in unimaginable blues and the neon marine life beneath bring to mind the "stop-the-world-I-want-to-get-off" Caribbean fantasy. This is a place of such wonder and beauty that it is the Caribbean's most highly advertised anchorage. Anchor to Anchor - Bequia to Tobago Cays - 27 miles - 5 hours

Sailing South We left Fort-de-France, Martinique on February 15, 2009. Our passage to Rodney Bay, St. Lucia was only 6 hours which was just as well as the swell in between the islands was substantial and bouncy (12 feet). Anchor to Anchor - 32 miles We spent the night anchored beside the massive power yacht "Grand Bleu" (Dublin), We've seen it before along the way and always marvel at its cargo of "toys". On its deck it carries a powerboat and sailboat that are the envy of most. As well, tucked in are lifeboats, jet skis and a few inflatable dinghies. A week later we would find the sailboat "Grand Bleu II" (one of the toys) anchored behind us in the Tobago Cays. We estimated its length to be at least 55 feet. From Rodney Bay we continued south in the lee of the islands of St. Lucia and St. Vincent to arrive in Bequia; tired, out of food and fresh water and in the dark. Anchor to Anchor - 75 miles - l5 hours Today's passage saw us "squeezed" out of the way by a cruise ship as it entered Castries, St. Lucia. We enjoyed watching dolphins alongside as they rode in the swell just off the Pitons. Our friends on Ngoma arrived in to Bequia a day behind us, from the north and our friends on La Bete also arrived the next day but they came in from the south. After re-provisioning (diesel, water, food and propane), running errands (emails, posting mail) and visiting with our friends we were off again south to the Tobago Cays.

The Strike in Martinique Sometimes ignorance is bliss and that was the case for us while in Martinique. Our very limited French language skills left us unaware of the degree of unrest that was brewing on the island. We had heard that there was a strike going on in Guadeloupe and that it was spreading to Martinique. When they started policing the grocery store door and forming lines down the block to get in we realized the extent of the problem. By the time we cleared out through customs the island was essentially "closed for business". There was very limited food available (certainly no more of the fresh baguettes that we'd come to love); gasoline sales had ceased (the stations were being policed); there was no garbage collection; public transit had ceased (buses, communal taxis, ferries); the banks were closed - ATMs empty; schools were closed as well as the post office. Additional police were brought in from France. We were grateful to have done the sight-seeing we did before the situation got out of hand. Our last anchorage in Martinique was off the capital city of Fort-de-France. We heard the drum beat, right through the night, as thousands of citizens protested. Last news was not good news - this year's carnival was cancelled. A truly sad situation for such an amazing island. About the strike: A general strike began January 20, 2009 in the French island of Guadeloupe. The strike was organized by the anti-profiteering committee (an umbrella group that brings together trade unions, political groups and several Creole cultural groups). The group demanded the price of essential goods be reduced. Living costs are high on the French islands which depend highly on imports and use the euro. The strike is exposing racial and class tensions on an island where a largely white elite, that makes up a small percentage of the population, controls most businesses. Martinique began its own general strike in mid February 2009. It crippled the island for a 1 month period.

Depaz Distillery and Plantation Museum As part of the excellent, extensive museum on the Depaz grounds, they have a running paddle wheel. We learned that when the paddle wheel was first introduced in Martinique in the l7th century it was used to drive the cane mills, however, later it was replaced by a steam engine which is still used today. This impressive steam engine is the machine around which the Depaz distillery revolves but which in times gone by was used to supply water to the fountains at the Chateau de Versailles. At the Depaz distillery sugar cane is grown and crushed to produce their rum. The cane fields surround the distillery for miles around. 250 hectares of cane are harvested over a 5 month period of time (February to June) 250 tons are crushed each day and 25,000 litres of rum are produced each day (yes, 25,000 litres each day!)

Depaz Distillery and Plantation on Mount Pelee - Martinique We hiked up the hill out of Saint Pierre, along with Robin & Sandra (Ngoma), past beautiful roadside gardens to reach the Depaz Distillery and Plantation. We toured their immaculate facilities and enjoyed an educational and historical insight into the business of rum production.

Keeping Watch Atop the headland overlooking the mountain, sea and town of Saint Pierre is a statue of the Virgin Mary. We hiked along with Robin & Sandra (Ngoma), past the stations of the cross, to the top to get a close-up look at the statue and to share her view. Along the way we passed by the church with its huge cemetery behind it.