Monday, May 17, 2010
Friday, May 14, 2010
Up the Creek
Green Cove Springs, St. John's River, Florida
La 30.00.7'N Lo 081.41.1'W
Sea Star will be stored for the 2010 hurricane season in Green Cove Springs which is located 40 miles up the St. John's river (near Jacksonville in northeastern Florida).
We timed our passage on the river to take best advantage of the flood tide. Even still our progress through the strong current was tedious, averaging only 3 knots for the 6 hours it took us to travel the 18 miles to Jacksonville.
We motored along in the St. John's distinctive copper coloured water past extensive industrial, commercial and national defense operations: nuclear power plant, warships, freighters, numerous tugs pushing barges, many container ships being loaded and unloaded and even a cruise ship.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Sights along the way
On our passage northward along Florida's eastern seaboard we travelled through many marine parks, water-fowl and wildlife refuge areas.
One such area, our first night underway, was the Indian River lagoon. This area has been recognized by the Environmental Protection Agency as the most biologically diverse estuary in the United States.
It was fascinating to anchor over-night, alone, in vast open marsh areas, resplendent in several varieties of waterfowl such as heron, egret (including snowy), ibis, flamingos, osprey, pelicans, cormorants and eagles (including bald).
As we motor-sailed along we took great delight in watching the many dolphins that frequent the waterway. Luckily we missed seeing the many 'gaters that are also reported in the area (we did hear lots of horror stories though).
The sections of waterway not reserved for conservation were heavily developed with expensive homes. The current difficult economic climate was obvious by the large number of properties for sale. It looks like it's a good time to buy in Florida.
Along the way we shared the beauty of the area with many tour boats, dinner cruises etc.
Bridges on the ICW
Early, on Sunday, April 25th, 2010, we passed through the Ft. Pierce bridge and started on our way north along the Indian River section of the Inter-coastal waterway.
The 240 mile route to our destination on the St. John's River (inland from Jacksonville, Florida) would take us through and under more than 40 bridges of varying designs: high, lift, bascule, train and swing.
Along this passage we experienced tidal fluctuations ranging from 5 feet in St. Augustine to 1 foot in the St. John's River.
Manatees
After our visit to U.S. Customs in Ft. Pierce we took the opportunity to tour the Manatee Observation and Education Centre located there.
The Florida manatee is a subspecies of the West Indian manatee. It is found in springs, rivers and shallow coastal waters in Florida and adjacent states.
We were delighted to have the good fortune of making a few sightings of these unique, plant-eating mammals during our travels north on the Inter-coastal waterway.
Florida or Bust!! - Crossing the Stream
Anchor to Anchor
April 22, 2010 Mackie Shoal, Great Bahama Bank to Ft. Pierce, Florida
28 hours - 140 miles
La 27.28.3'N Lo 080.19.6'W
With a fair wind upon us we abandoned our plan to stage for our crossing to Florida, at Bimini, and decided to start our passage from Mackie Shoal, on the banks.
We sailed on a course of 316 degrees true off of the Great Bahama Bank with perfect wind (N/E 10-15 knots) into an absolutely breathtakingly beautiful sunset. While marvelling at the multitude of colours in the sky we noticed a red squiggly line in the distance at 330 degrees true. A cruise ship was passing and we wondered if they had fired a flare but we quickly concluded that the space shuttle had launched, (Cape Canaveral being 130 miles across the open Atlantic waters off our starboard bow).
We watched in awe as the shuttle sped (seemingly) towards us overhead, the air visibly streaming around it, vapour trail pouring behind. As it appeared to reach our location we clearly viewed the fuel tanks dropping away. The look that Barry and I exchanged was priceless as we both attempted to ascertain whether the shuttle's discarded appendage would burn up in the atmosphere or drop into the sea (or our cock-pit). Well, we didn't see anything splash so we can only assume it burned up.
As we slipped off of the Great Bahama Bank into the very deep Atlantic Ocean waters we were over-whelmed by the strong smell of fish. Obviously the waters were dense with them as they came up against the shallow banks.
We had a great sail through the night but regrettably at dawn as the brilliant red, fire-ball sun rose behind us, the wind died out. We were about half way across when we commenced motor-sailing.
We rode the Gulf Stream north as best we could between the towed barges and freighters and worked our way north along Florida's coast, entering at the Ft. Pierce Inlet.
Unable to reach U.S. Customs by phone on the toll-free number we received in Culebra when we bought our cruising permit, we ended up both going by taxi to the Ft. Pierce airport to check in.
Florida found - l831 miles and 84 days from Grenada
Staging to Cross the Stream
Our weather sources agreed on an opportunity 4 days in the future of 3 days of southeast 10-15 knot winds; possibly our weather window to sail across the Atlantic waters (Gulf Stream) from Bimini to Florida.
Unfortunately, the interim 3 days in which we needed to cross the Great Bahama bank from Nassau to Bimini was fore casted to be squally with light and variable winds. We felt that too little wind was better than too much and with our eye on the future weather window we started on our way.
Our first day out was great sailing with favourable 15-20 knot winds. We spent that night anchored in the Berry Island chain behind Bird Cay.
On the second day, with the favourable wind still blowing 15-20 knots we made our way across the Tongue of the Ocean to the Northwest Channel Light and onto the banks. We made it about half-way to our next overnight anchorage location of Mackie Shoal before the squalls, laden with numerous water spouts rolled in. Twice in a very short distance we dropped the sails and set anchor to ride the weather out. This was a long day for us as we ended up motor-sailing, arriving at Mackie Shoal after 10 p.m.
The Great Bahama Bank is very shallow (2 to 7 metres deep) and stretches approximately 70 miles between land. It's an odd experience to drop anchor for the night in the middle of open water with no land in sight.
Today, as we sat unhappily anchored, bouncing in the choppy swell and strong wind while the severe weather passed we were awed as a tiny yellow bird landed right beside us in the cock-pit. It rested and looked at us as we marvelled at how far it must have flown in such nasty conditions. As it was, another yellow bird and a huge dragon-fly took respite with us the next day.
Day 3 brought light winds, unfavourable to make Bimini but okay to sail north-west so we decided to just ride with them and exit the bank further north at the Hens & Chickens.
Anchor to Anchor
April 20, 2010 Nassau, New Providence Island to Bird Cay, Berry Islands
8 hours - 33 miles
La 25.24.3'N Lo 077.50.7'W
Anchor to Anchor
April 21, 2010 Bird Cay, Berry Islands to Mackie Shoal, Great Bahama Bank
14 hours - 44 miles
La 25.38.1'N Lo 078.38.3' W
Freighter Full of Fun - Family Islands Regatta and Star World Championship
Sailing is a very competitive sport in the Bahamas.
While anchored across from the Atlantis resort in Nassau harbour we witnessed a freighter leaving on its way to Georgetown. It was packed full of Bahamian sloops and their crews on route to the Family Islands Regatta which was scheduled for the end of the week.
As we made our way past Porgee Rocks on April 16th, on our approach to Nassau harbour, we viewed Star World Championship boats as they raced past us.
This racing competition, in which 2 man racing crews vie for one of the most cherished prizes in competitive sailing, is hosted annually in various venues around the world. Luckily for us, it was hosted by the Nassau Yacht Club and happily a Canadian couple clinched the 6 race series. Congratulations to the Canadian team of Richard Clarke and Tyler Bjorn.
We're proudly flying our flag.
Monday, April 19, 2010
Atlantis - Paradise Island - Bahamas
While anchored off Nassau we enjoyed an outing to the Atlantis resort complex on Paradise Island.
We accessed the resort by way of the dinghy dock in Atlantis' marina. Our wee dinghy was dwarfed as it slipped between the massive mega-yachts docked there.
We skirted the casino, having already made a sizable donation in the marina shopping complex and enjoyed viewing the fish in Atlantis' huge aquarium.
Nassau - New Providence Island, Bahamas
Barry's Birthday
We coasted in the swift current into Nassau harbour at noon on Barry's 59th birthday (Apr 16).
Our passage today from Highborne Cay took us across the "yellow bank" section of the Great Bahama Bank. Barry and I strategically timed our crossing to allow ourselves the best light conditions possible as we visually piloted Sea Star through the numerous shallow coral heads in the area.
Hindered by the strong current and brisk (20-25 knot) winds, it took us 4 attempts at anchoring to get a good hold in the crowded, busy harbour channel between Nassau (New Providence Island) and Paradise Island.
Our anchorage here allows us a good view of the constantly changing flow of cruise ships.
While stopped in Nassau we visited it's famous straw market. I was enamored by the locally made baskets that incorporated the area's locally made batik (Androsia) - truly beautiful works of art.
The Exuma Cays Chain - Bahamas
On our way north we visited, albeit briefly, some of the Exuma island chain of islands that we hadn't seen going south.
On April 7th we left behind the on-going cruiser's fun and festivities in Georgetown, skirted the shallow coral and rocks at the north end of Stocking Island and started north. We motor-sailed through the cut from Exuma Sound to the Great Bahama bank side of Rat Cay to spend the night anchored amongst the sting-rays there.
The next day we exited, at slack water, back through the Rat Cay Cut to sail on the Exuma Sound side of the island chain. We averaged 5 knots in light south-east winds and re-entered the Great Bahama Bank side, 35 miles north, through Dotham Cut. Here we anchored for 2 nights off Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay. We hiked to the windward side of the island to explore the beaches and a new marina development. Of interest to us was the sharp contrast in local housing between the Bahamas and many of the Caribbean islands. Here we see houses with glass windows, doors, air-conditioners, sky-lights, chimneys and golf carts in the driveway; non of which we'd seen in most Caribbean communities.
For the rest of our passages along the Exuma Cays we sailed only on the Great Bahama Bank side.
We stopped in at Staniel Cay to snorkel the "thunderball" grotto during slack water. The huge number of multi-coloured reef fish plus the spectacular corals edging the grotto made us feel as though we were swimming in an aquarium. Barry kindly reminded me of Steve-O's (Crykey) fate as I swam back to the boat amongst the myriad of sting-rays in the grotto area.
From Staniel Cay we entered the Exumas Land and Sea Park and anchored for the night in the swift current off Warderick Wells Cay.
Our next stop was Shroud Cay, where we dinghied through the mangroves in the centre of the island to walk the beach on the windward side.
From Shroud Cay we hopped north to take shelter from the fore-casted 30 knot sustained (24 hrs) winds in the lee of the privately owned Highborne Cay. While waiting the weather out we dinghied in to the small marina operating out of the south end of the island. We found not only many sharks in the marina's waters but also in their store as we paid $6.50 U.S. for a loaf of bread. The very swift current in the area gave us just the speed we wanted as we made our hasty exit. We both felt "Highbrow Cay" might have been a more appropriate name for this island.
Anchor to Anchor - Exuma Cays
April 7, 2010 Georgetown, Great Exuma Island to Ray Cay - 5 hours, 23 miles
La 23.43.8'N Lo 76.02.9'W
April 8. 2010 Ray Cat to Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay - 7 hours, 35 miles
La 24.05.9'N Lo 76.24.1'W
April 10, 2010 Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay to Staniel Cay - 2 hours, 8 miles
La 24.10.7'N Lo 76.26.9'W
April 10, 2010 Staniel Cay to Warderick Wells Cay - 4 hours, 16 miles
La 24.22.9'N Lo 76.38.1'W
April 11, 2010 Warderick Wells Cay to Shroud Cay - 4 hours - 19 miles
La 24.31.3N Lo 76.47.7'W
April 12, 2010 Shroud Cay to Highborne Cay - 4 hours - 18 miles
La 24.42.9'N Lo 76.49.8'W
Easter in Georgetown, Great Exuma Island, Bahamas
Anchor to Anchor - Long Cay (Crooked Island District, Bahamas) to Cape Santa Maria (N/W corner Long Island) Bahamas
25 hours, 122 miles
La 23.30.6'N Lo 74.45.7'W
Anchor to Anchor - Cape Santa Maria, Long Island, Bahamas to Georgetown, Great Exuma Island, Bahamas
6 hours, 22 miles
Our path to Georgetown has taken us 1460 miles and 2 months since we left Grenada.
Coincidentally, we find ourselves arriving in Georgetown on Good Friday. Sea Star anchored here over Easter as well on our way south in 2007 along with our friends Debbie and Larry on Tsunami, Ola and Tom on Blind Faith and Carmelle and Yvon on Taima.
On this passage we crossed the Tropic of Cancer (23 degrees 27.0 minutes north).
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